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Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Window Tint Removal and Application

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Our Toyota Coaster windows are already tinted, so why would we want to change it? Well, we are a little bit special that way and like things to be new and clean. So Shane and I decided it would be a great idea to replace the old, tired window tint in the bus with new ‘do it yourself’ window tint. As with everything we have done so far, we thought, ‘how hard could it be?’. Well I can tell you, the window tint removal was fun. Turns out when you follow instructions, it can be hard to the point of stamping your feet and crumpling the tint up into a ball. Yep, as you can see towards the end of the video, that is what happened.

So back to the decision of window tint. We purchased Altrex extra dark smoke 5% from our local Supercheap Auto store. This is a super dark tint, with only 5% of light being allowed in.

We decided to go with the darkest tint we could find, for the windows that were going to be directly behind the bathroom cubicle and the fridge. We did not want to be able to look in from the outside of the bus and see the back of these.

The Removal Process –

Removing the old window tint was the first step.

I had purchased a scraper blade from our local hardware shop, Bunnings, and had planned to just scrape it off. I began by removing the window lock using a phillips head screwdriver and taking out two screws. I set this aside to put back on after the new window tint was in place. You can leave the window lock on and cut the tint around it, but I found that the ease in removing it was much more convenient than trying to work around it.

I then began to scrape the window tint off piece by piece. Two hours, and half the window tint later, I decided no more. There must be an easier way; that’s when I turned to Google.

Heat.

I found a hair dryer, heated the edges of the window tint and used my scraper to start a peel. It worked. What had taken me so long on my own, took only 15 minutes to complete the rest of the window with the hair dryer. Time for the next window.

Once the old tint was removed from all of the windows we decided on, they were cleaned with ammonia free glass cleaner to get them ready for the new tint. We are not sure why it was necessary to have ammonia free glass cleaner; the instructions said so and we decided it would be best to follow them, just in case. We wiped the windows with paper towel so as not to leave any dust or marks.

New Tint Application, First Try –

The process was supposed to be simple. We purchased all the items required –

  • Tint
  • Bucket
  • Mild dish washing liquid (Mix approximately a cap full with 4 litres of water and fill spray bottle)
  • Spray Bottle
  • Squeegee
  • Utility knife
  • Large 60cm ruler
  • Clear tape
  • Ammonia free window cleaner
  • Paper Towel
  • Cleaning Cloth
  • Butchers paper for the outline
  • Marker

All the tools for do it yourself window tint installation in our toyota coaster school bus conversion

The instructions said, measure twice, cut once.

So that’s what we did. We measured the window, drew it up on the butcher’s paper, and cut out the paper only to reveal it was too small. Time to measure again. This piece looked better. We then placed our piece of butcher’s paper up against the new tint, cut around it, and left approximately 1 centimeter around the entire outside. This was just in case there were any issues, and it could be trimmed later.

The next step was a bit fiddly. The new tint has a thin protective layer which once removed, meant that we could adhere it to the window. Using 2 pieces of sticky tape on either side of the tint, and pulling gently, it allowed us to separate it. Once we had done that just a little, we wet the window and tint with a mixture of dish washing liquid and water in a spray bottle. While ever the window and tint were wet, you could move it easily. We learnt this probably a bit too late; our first attempt started to dry and no matter what we did, we could not get it to line up.

It was so difficult! This is where I ended up stamping and crinkling it into a ball.

Our piece of tint was too small. It didn’t work. Measure twice, cut once they said. It didn’t work!

Back to the drawing board.

New Tint Application, Second Try –

We decided not to measure the window up this time. It was time to ‘wing it’.

We held the tint up against the window and cut a piece big enough to fit with plenty of excess around the edges. We decided it would be easier to just trim around the edges once in place. We separated it, and kept it completely wet throughout so it did not crinkle as we got it in place, and stuck it on. And… it worked! Our way worked! Once it was in place, we used the squeegee on the new tint. Shane gently pressed it, and pushed all the water to the outside edges to get it flat, remove the air bubbles and all excess water from underneath.

The utility knife was then used to cut around the edges of the excess tint and make it a nice clean edge.

It was done. And with our way, the second and third windows were complete without issues.

And for a ‘do it yourself’ job, it looked fantastic! We were super happy and decided that possibly one day, definitely not too soon, we would do the rest of the windows, just not as dark.

So that was the window tint. The final step before we could mark out our layout in the bus and start framing!

The Layout –

We have talked about our design before and what we want in our bus. It was finally time to tape it up on the bus floor and get an idea of where we stand. Both Shane and I had been wanting to get to this step for so long. We wanted to see if everything we had discussed and hoped would actually work.

The day was beginning to fade so this would be our last job before leaving. We got out our plan, measured and taped it out. It started to look real.

Thankfully, just about everything we had talked about and measured worked. We will go through this in more details once we start framing, but it was just exciting to get it up and running!

Keep an eye out for next time, the exciting stuff begins!

Thetford Stove, Suburban Hot Water and Sphere Range Hood

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In case you missed it, a little while back, we headed to the Sydney Caravan, Camping and Holiday Super Show where we proceeded to purchase a few more items for our Toyota Coaster school bus conversion. Just a few of these items were our Thetford stove, Sphere range hood, and Suburban hot water system. This post will detail why we decided to purchase them and how we went about getting a good deal.

Thetford Caprice MK3 Stove –  

Our Thetford stove was a large and expensive purchase. We weighed up the pros and cons on having an indoor stove and decided we were all for it.

The main reason was for convenience. We are going to be living in our bus, and do not want to have to go outside constantly to cook off a bbq or burner. Not only do I like to paint and create things, but I also love to bake cakes and anything sweet. Shane loves to cook, and is all about health and fitness. Being able to have the availability and ease of our own oven was a must.

Shane and I decided on the Thetford Caprice MK3 dual fuel, all in one combination stove, oven and grill.

The stove weighs in at around 27kg; it has a 36 litre oven, 13.7 litre grill, 3 gas hotplates and 1 electric.

It measures 65cm high, 51cm wide and 50cm in depth. Weight and size were considerations for our purchase as we wanted something that was capable of doing everything we wanted, whilst also not being too heavy and being able to fit in our kitchen plan. This one met the criteria for weight and size.

Dual fuel means that we have gas and electric options available. We will primarily use the gas while on the road, and initially we were only going to purchase the gas stove. However, we decided to select an option that had a single electric cooktop so that when we parked somewhere with access to power, we could save on gas and money.

For an updated product review of the Thetford Caprice oven after using it for over a year, check out our new post here. 

Sphere 12V Touch Control Range hood –  

Knowing we will be cooking a fair bit inside our bus, we decided a range hood is a must.

Our considerations for the range hood were style (of course), functionality, cost and size. Size is always a factor in our thought process.

The Sphere 12V Touch Control range hood met the bill. Have a look at it here.

Being a slimline range hood, it measures at 53cm wide, 30cm deep, 6cm high and weights around 3.5kg. The range hood should sit mounted under the cupboard above our stove nicely, with the exhaust having enough room to be filtered out behind it.

It has a tempered glass touch screen on front, with a clock and multiple fan functions. It didn’t matter too much on the details, Shane was sold on the touch screen and the clock alone!

Sphere 12V Touch Screen Rangehood Toyota Coaster school bus conversion

Suburban SW6DEA Hot Water System –  

Finally, our last large purchase of the day was our hot water system; something we had thought about for a while. We had worked out what will be requiring hot water, when and how much, which all impacted our decision.

The Suburban SW6DEA 22.6 litre gas and electric hot water system is the one we chose for our bus conversion.  Just as with the stove, we decided on an option that had dual fuel, 240V electric and gas, for convenience and usability. While we are on the road we will be able to use a renewable source with gas, and use electricity when available. We have kept this idea in mind for most of our purchases. We want to avoid a single source of failure when it comes to resources, and also want to be able to save money when we can, by using a mains connection.

The hot water system weighs 17kg and measures in at 32cm wide and high, and 50cm depth. We will need to allow extra space at the rear of the system for the plumbing. The one we purchased has the optional door included. This means we can mount it under our bed, and the door allows us to access the hot water system from outside the bus.

SW6DEA Hot water system Toyota Coaster school bus conversion

Now all of these items were expensive. However, by purchasing from the show and purchasing together, we were able to work out a fantastic deal. The sales representative was able to get them cheaper than we could online and organised to have them shipped to our door! We did a lot of research and price comparisons, so we knew we were getting a good deal. It is definitely worth it to shop around and compare prices.

We saved so much money and were able to get everything we were wanting with ease and convenience.

Once we have them set up in the bus and have been on the road for a while, we will do a review of our purchases. If you haven’t already, check out our previous purchases, our Evakool Fridge and Camec Washing Machine here.

Can’t wait to start using them!

Shorty cat in front of purchases for our Toyota Coaster bus conversion. Stove, rangehood, hot water system.

Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Insulation

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Still to this day, after removing seats, building grey water tank mounts, and sweltering through 45 degree days, our Toyota Coaster bus conversion insulation remains one of the most annoying and hated jobs we have done!

Bus conversion insulation - caulking gun - toyota coaster bus conversion

The Insulation –

The insulation we chose for the bus was Earthwool with an R value of 2.5. It is very similar to the insulation we decided on for the walls. The only difference is it has a slightly higher R value. It is the same thickness of 90mm and was a very similar cost.

One of our subscribers on our Youtube channel suggested we could use a polyester insulation, easier to use and not as many consequences as the glasswool. This is something we looked into, but decided for cost, it was a better option for us to use the Earthwool and make sure we were adequately prepared.

The Process –

Learning our lessons from the wall insulation, today I came prepared. Full long sleeves, pants, mask and glasses were a must. Well I almost came fully prepared, I forgot gloves. When using your hands, gloves are extremely helpful to keep the insulation out of your skin.

Installing the insulation really is a simple job, just a little bit time consuming. I found it easiest to use scissors this time rather than tearing like the wall insulation. Whilst it was more time consuming, it was much neater and there was less waste.

I cut piece by piece, measuring with my hands as I was going. The insulation on the curved edges of the roof did not require any glue to hold in place as they fit snuggly into the metal edges.

For the insulation on the middle, flat part of the roof, I used a small amount of liquid nails and held it in place for a moment just to set the adhesive a little before letting go.

Now, do not do what I did. I tried to put the liquid nails directly onto the roof… and it came back down all over me. Of course, if I had thought about it, this wouldn’t have happened. But it did. It is definitely best to put the liquid nails directly onto the insulation, then place it on the roof.

When all the larger pieces were done, I went back and used offcuts to fill any of the smaller gaps.

It was as simple as that.

The result –

Pain!

Even though I was careful and had protective clothing, I did not wear my glasses all the time. I also at one point removed my mask and wiped my face with my hand. Mistake! A word of caution, wear glasses and do not wipe your face unless you have cleaned your hands. The result was glasswool all through my face and eyes. Itchy and sore for days!

Our Toyota Coaster bus conversion insulation however, looked great. The roof insulation is finally done, and that leaves us one step closer to completion!

Toyota Coaster Bus Conversion – Caravan Door Installation

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If you are reading this post and looking to do a conversion of your Toyota Coaster door, you may have found that you need to replace the current door in your bus to be able to register it.

This can be the case depending on where you live.

In NSW, to be able to register a vehicle as a motorhome, it must have an “outward opening door”. This means a door that opens away from your vehicle.

In other states, the regulations are different and you may not need to make any adjustments to your door in order to change your vehicle to a motorhome.

If you have a bi-fold door in your current bus, and need a little help removing it, check out our post here.

There are certain doors which are acceptable in NSW, and the Aussie Traveller Caravan Door is one of these.

Other door options available –

The Aussie Traveller caravan door –

The Aussie Traveller door is designed to be used in a caravan, motorhome or like us, a bus conversion. It features –

  • Two separate doors, so you can have a lockable fly screen
  • Tinted glass panel for privacy
  • Multiple locks for security
  • Approved gas vent if you are going to be having gas appliances in your bus
  • Different styles and sizes available

Why we chose this door for our bus conversion –

Besides the obvious – it looks good, there are a few other main reasons we decided to install this door in our bus.

  • It is one of the doors available that fits a custom frame for the Toyota Coaster. You can’t just remove an old door and put a new one straight in. They are a different shape, and size to what is already in a bus. This door fits into a custom frame sold online by Custom Coaster Conversions*. This made our decision really quite simple and the primary reason why we chose this door.
  • The flyscreen. To some this may seem trivial, but when you live in a motorhome, you don’t always want to sit outside, but you also don’t always want to be cooped up inside. We also travel with cats, so this gives us the option to separate the two doors and still protect our privacy, give us fresh air, keep the cats safe, and keep the bugs out!
  • The gas vent. As we decided we would have gas appliances inside of our bus, we needed to have approved gas vents. This door has one built into it at the bottom and meets the regulations required for gas in NSW. If you want to read more about the regulations for gas in a motorhome, check out our post here where we detail all of the regulations for you.

*Custom Coaster Conversions are no longer selling parts and accessories for Toyota Coasters, however the door can still be purchased directly from Aussie Traveller.

Installing your new caravan door –  

Step One –  
Toyota Coaster Door Frame Adjustment

The gap where you old door was is too big to fit a caravan door straight into. So, the first step to install the door, is to install a frame where it can sit.

Lucky for Coaster owners, you can purchase a pre-cut fibreglass frame specifically made to fit a Toyota Coaster bus from a company called DIY RV Solutions.

Start by holding the frame into position, and seeing how it fits. This is important as you know if any adjustments are required prior to installing it.

Our frame stuck out at both ends a bit too much. Being fibreglass, you can use a sander to shape it, so this is what we did (It is important to wear a mask as it is not good to get fibreglass in your lungs, we did not, so do not follow our lead here!). You can also use a grinder to cut more off at a time, but be careful to not cut too much.

We laid the frame down and sanded both ends a little at a time, holding it into position and testing it until it fit more snug. Once you are happy with how it is sitting, you are ready for the next step. We did not get ours to fit perfectly, however we got it to a point where we knew we could fill the gaps with silicone. Each door may vary a little so this step may take a few attempts to get it right. It certainly took us a few!

This step was done in our previous video where we removed our bi-fold door.

Step Two –  

Now that the door frame fits snug in the door way, you can apply a sealant around the edge of the door way and put the frame in place. This will take two people to do so make sure you have someone there to help you!

There are a variety of sealants available to use, and the choice is up to you. We recommend something suitable for outdoor use, and something with some flexibility and UV resistance. You can buy specific sealant for vehicles which is also a good choice here.

Toyota Coaster Door Frame Install

While the door is being held in place by one person, the other person can pre-drill approximately six holes down each side of the door evenly spaced. It is important not to start right at the top, or the bottom as you need to have some flexibility later to be able to push on the door and adjust as you go.

Step Three –  
Toyota Coaster Door Frame screw and silicone

Once you have pre-drilled your holes, we used 30mm self drilling, countersunk metal screws and screwed one into each hole. Once you have a few of these on each side, your door should be secure enough to let go.

For the top and bottom of your fibreglass frame, after a series of unsuccessful attempts, we ended up pre-drilling and screwing each corner from the front of the frame into the metal bus frame underneath. This ensured it followed the curve of the bus, and sat flush in position.

Step Four –  

While the silicone is still wet, smooth down the edges and fill any gaps on the inside of the door frame.

On the outside of the bus, mask up either side of the door frame and using silicone again, fill this gap. By using masking tape and warm soapy water, we were able to smooth it down with our fingers and make a nice line. Professional job!

Step Five –

When we purchased our fibreglass frame and Aussie Traveller door from Custom Coaster Conversions, we received a checker plate floor insert to go with it. This insert was made to sit on the current floor (or first step) and cover the gap between the floor and the new frame.

It takes a little angling to fit into place, but once in covers the gap nicely. Alternative to this, you could use metal of your own, or even wood to create a new floor in its place.

Step Six –  
Toyota Coaster Caravan Door installation

Now that the frame is in place, it is time to get the actual Aussie Traveller door into its position.

This step needs two people as it is quite fiddly, and cannot be done by yourself.

To get the door into its correct position, one person needs to hold the door in place while the other squeezes spacers all around the edge of the door, trying to make it even. The main idea of the spacers is to hold the door into position, and to make it even and level. If it is not even, it may have trouble later locking or closing. This process should be done on as even ground as possible.

We found the bottom corner of the door definitely needs the most support as a lot of the weight of the door rests here and you don’t want it to sag over time.

For our spacers we used rubber anti-vibration pad purchased from Bunnings. The door itself is supplied with a couple of spacers, however we found we needed more for extra support.

Step Seven –  

Once you are happy with the position of the door, it is time to screw it into place. You will need similar screws to what was used for the frame however they will need to have a flat head (preferably). It is also a good idea to use stainless steel where possible to prevent rust.

Toyota Coaster Caravan Door Screw and install

Start by pre-drilling holes again straight into the caravan door frame. Approximately 4-6 evenly spaced down each side is sufficient and you don’t need any on the top or bottom.

Once you have done this, put a screw in each one. Be careful, if you screw them in too tight you may pull the edges in too tight and it may make your door out of shape a little. This means that you may not be able to lock your door later on (this happened with us!). If this does happen, loosen the screw a bit and put an additional spacer in where necessary.

Step Eight –  
Toyota Coaster Caravan door conversion finished installation

Once you are satisfied the door is secure, check that the door opens, closes and locks smoothly. Then you are done!

After living in our bus for over a year now, we have found we are extremely happy with the door. We have attached some small hooks so that when we open the doors separately, the main door stays open, while the fly screen is closed.

We had some squeaking a little while ago, and found that applying some silicone spray did wonders.

It has been a very reliable door, and we are glad we purchased it.

Watch us struggle so you don’t have to, in the video of our new door installation.

Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Bi-Fold Door Removal

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In NSW, for a bus to registered as a motorhome, it is a requirement that it must have an “outward opening door”. For us this meant we would need to remove our Toyota Coaster’s bi-fold door.

If you are researching Toyota Coasters as an option for your bus conversion, it is a good idea to look at the current door on it, and know the regulations for your state. For NSW an outward opening door, is any door that opens out of the bus, or even slides on the outside, on the left hand side or rear of the vehicle.

Unfortunately, a bi-fold door like the one we have, does not count. We also did not have a rear door that would not be obstructed by our bed. So that means it was time to remove the old bi-fold door from our Toyota Coaster, and replace it with a complying outward opening door.

Now, removing the bi-fold door and replacing it are not the only options, and by far not the cheapest option. After chatting to our engineer, they stated that we can adjust the current bi-fold door to fit regulations. This is not something we did, however it can be done by welding the current bifold door so it can no longer bend, and changing the hinge system so that it swings outwards. If you are handy on the tools, and looking for a cheaper alternative, this is something worth researching further.

In saying all that, at this point in our conversion, we were not that handy, and decided to remove and replace the old bi-fold door. Read below our how to guide to remove this, or click through here to read about installation of our new Aussie Travellers Caravan Door.

Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV door removal

How to remove the bi-fold door of your Toyota Coaster

Step 1 –

Begin by removing any hand railings that may get in the way of removing the door. Each hand railing is attached with four bolts, and is stuck to the walls with silicone, so we used a flat head screw driver to pry them off.

This a simple, yet tedious task and worth it when trying to remove the door.

Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV door remov

Step 2 –

Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV door remov

At the bottom corner of the door there is a hinge block attached with metal screws. You will need an impact drill to remove the screws. Eventually without much success, we ended up threading the screws and used the grinder to remove the block.

Step 3 –

This is a very important step, and one we found out way too late. At the top of the door, on the outside of the bus, there is a cover plate. Underneath the cover plate, are bolts which attach the door. This plate needs to be removed in order to access the bolts underneath. We thought this would be simple and the cover would just ”pop off”, however it wasn’t, and we essentially had to rip it off. We then used the grinder to smooth down the edges of the metal frame that had been pulled out of position.

Step 4 –

Once you have removed this cover plate, you will now have access to the bolts underneath at the top of the door. Remove all visible bolts from the door track. Once these are removed, using a flat head screwdriver or similar, you can pry the track off. This is once again, a very tedious process. The adhesive that has been used on the track is very strong. With a lot of effort, it can be removed.

Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV door removal

Step 5 –

Now that the track has been removed, your door should be detached and be able to be taken off.

If for whatever reason you are still having difficulty, there is also an option to separate the two doors and remove one at a time. The doors are just bolted together and can be easily separated by removing the bolts.

So that is a summary of how to remove the bi-fold door from a Toyota Coaster.

We have put together a video of us removing our door, which can be viewed below.

Even though this was a more expensive option to remove the bi-fold door and replace it with a new one, if we were given the choice again we would still do it. The new door has been such an asset, and makes our Toyota Coaster feel like home.

We have also spoken to people from other states that were able to keep their bi-fold doors, but they generally were not happy with them. They do not seal properly so let in lots of water and dust, and also rattle substantially.

Our next post will be on installing our new Aussie Traveller’s Caravan door, and if you would like read about it, you can do so here.

Evakool DC 175L Fridge and Camec 3KG Top Loader Washing Machine Preview

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Ahh our first appliances have arrived our Evakool fridge and Camec washing machine! What an exciting feeling getting home and seeing them on the front veranda. It’s like shopping for appliances for a house, just on a smaller scale. Our Toyota Coaster renovation is going swimmingly and having some new items to put in will make it that much more like home. So let’s get into it and tell you a little about them.

Evakool Platinum DC Upright 175L Fridge/Freezer

Evakool 175 litre fridge - toyota coaster bus conversion

After plenty of research, Shane and I decided on this beautiful beast of a fridge for a few reasons –

Power –

We chose a 2-way 12/24 volt fridge instead of a 3-way, as we found a lot of people online who had 3-way’s mentioned they were using a lot of gas to run and had to run them on 12 volt often. When being used on 12 Volt, they were less efficient than a 2-way fridge. Most people recommended just going 12 volt, so that’s exactly what we did. 2-way fridges are also cheaper so it was nice to cut some costs.

Size –

Shane and I like food. And when we decided to build a home in our bus, a decent fridge/freezer was a necessity. We didn’t want a small bar size fridge as we knew we would want more space. We found that the Evakool 175 litre worked well for us – not too big and not too small. Standing at 1.3 metres tall and 60cm depth, it will fit in well with our bench space and overall design.

Weight –

Weight has been a big consideration for us with everything we purchase. Wanting to keep our bus under 4.5 tonne fully loaded so can drive it on a car licence, another influencing factor was this Evakool fridge’s weight – 50kg. For it’s size, it is relatively light.

Style –

When does style not come into it? The platinum, satin grey, metal finish works well for our style and will fit in well with our interior design ideas.

Evakool 175 litre fridge - toyota coaster bus conversion

Unfortunately, this model is no longer available for sale. For other fridges, check out Caravan RV Camping here. 

Camec 3kg Top Loader RV washing machine 

A washing machine is definitely not a necessity but for us, we decided it is something that will make our time on the road a lot more comfortable. We did a lot of research and decided on the 3kg Camec Top Loader RV washing machine.

Cycles –

The Camec has multiple cycles, including short wash, hot wash and regular. It does not require hot water as it actually heats the water itself. We may not ever use this function due to power consumption but it is good to know we have it.

Size –

A few others we looked at were 2kg, 2.5kg or twin tub and we thought for us, we would prefer something a tiny bit bigger but also easy to use. Its dimensions means we will be able to place it under the kitchen sink and access it either by a fold up bench or put it on rails to wheel out and back under. It also only weighs 18kg – this is important when you have weight restrictions on a bus. We found that a lot of front load washing machines were much heavier which is again another reason we decided on a top loader.

Water consumption and energy usage –

This was a big one. Living on the road we want to try and save as much water and energy as possible. On a low cycle it only uses around 20 litres which you can actually reuse for the next load if you want, or on a high load, it uses around 26 litres. This is one of the lowest ones we could find. With its power consumption, it uses 240 volt and on a cold wash only uses around 235 watts of power.

Price –

We are on a budget and are trying to make sure we can get the best quality and value but also at a good price. We shopped around and ended up getting this for under $300. Some places had it for over $400 so we were happy with the savings. We also decided the costs associated with using a laudromat or shared laundry at a caravan park would eventually add up and we would be more beneficial with our own from the beginning.

Review –

We decided to test it at home first before putting it in the bus so we get an idea of how it works but also get used to using a smaller washing machine and having smaller loads. At first we had an issue where it was leaking. We worked out we didn’t have the hoses connected properly and the tap was on too much. Once we fixed these issues, we have had absolutely no problems with the washing machine. It washes well and on a regular cycle only takes around 38 minutes. It has a lint filter which we check regularly.

It fits approximately 8 pieces of clothing a wash, or two big towels, or 1 sheet and two pillowcases, which is enough for two on the road every few days.

Overall we are really happy – size, ease, comfort, price.

Camec Washing machine review - toyota coaster bus conversion

As we purchase more items for our bus, we will take you through them and tell you about our reasons for picking them. Check out the list of ‘What’s in the bus‘ here.  After we finally get them into our bus and live on the road, we will do a second review letting you know if they live up to our expectations. Let’s hope that day isn’t too far away.

Check out our video here and let us know your thoughts on our choices!