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Things You Should Know Before Starting A Bus Conversion

January 21, 2021 by Claire Edwards 3 Comments

Roaming on rubber- things you should know before doing a bus conversion pinterest image

When we started building our Toyota Coaster, we were completely new to the idea of building our own tiny home. There was so much we didn’t know, and so much we had to learn. Our motto was always “wing it”, or “let’s just see how it goes”. We are now on our second bus build; our Mercedes Vario. We have learnt so much in the process, and so far it has made this bus build go a lot smoother. That’s why we thought it was finally time to share with you the things we wish we had known before starting a bus conversion.

Roaming on rubber- things you should know before doing a bus conversion

The Emotional Rollercoaster –

The first and foremost thing we need to talk is the emotional rollercoaster of a ride your bus conversion will take you on. Everyone knows about budget, and time, and we will talk about those things too, but not everyone tells you about the journey of emotions that goes along with it.

When you start your bus conversion, you might think you know someone. It could be yourself, a partner, family member or friend. You know how they work, what causes them stress and how they handle certain situations. Well, this build will test everything you thought you knew!

There will be breakdowns and many different levels of stress. The bus conversion will occupy every second of your thoughts. We would spend hours looking at inspiration on how we can achieve a design or look we want, only to then spend hours more lying in bed unable to sleep thinking about the same thing. Sometimes you will want to give up, but other times completing a job no matter how small will give you the motivation to keep on going.

If you are building with someone it will test your relationship. There will be arguments and conflict, disagreements and differences in opinion. You will be trying to explain something and there will be trouble understanding. Both of you will have different ways of wanting to do the same thing. You won’t agree on the plan, or the design of everything.

This all sounds horrible, and you are probably thinking ‘why would I start with this?’, and ‘is it even worth it?’ Well the answer is yes! It absolutely is! Even though this is a huge undertaking, it is all part of the journey.

As much as there a lows, there a highs as well. After each completed task there is a sense of pride, along with the joy that comes from seeing it take shape.

From our experience, we have learnt that sometimes we just need to step completely away. Take a day to remind ourselves why we wanted to do this in the first place. If we don’t agree, we can work on something different or each come up with a new idea that the other may agree with. There is always ways to overcome this.

In the end, when it’s completed, you won’t look back and think of the stress, or all the arguments, you will stand there and look at what you have created with a smile on your face. It may not be perfect but it is yours, and you did this.

Roaming on Rubber - Free camping tips Australia -Esperance

Budget –

The main question we get asked is ‘how much does it cost to do a bus conversion?’

This is probably the hardest question to answer, and when starting your bus conversion, you may have no idea. There are so many different factors which can result in huge price differences. Some people think it is cheaper to do their own conversion, and others to buy one already done and remodel to their liking. Whilst it can be cheaper starting from scratch, it can also end up more expensive, take longer, and is definitely a lot more work! But when you are getting exactly what you want, does that make it worth it?

So, what costs the most money?

A couple of questions on what you want will start to determine your costs –

  • Do you want to be able to live off grid? How long for?
  • Do you want a shower and toilet?
  • Will you want a kitchen inside, or are you happy with outdoor cooking facilities?
  • What about hot water?

If you answered yes to any of those questions, already your costs are going to start creeping up.

So having a clear idea for your budget is a necessity. It might mean you need to look at second hand items, or compromising on some of the initial things you had planned.

Not only is there the expense of buying all of the items and appliances you want, but there could be service costs. For example, if you are having gas or 240v electricity, you will need a gas plumber and an electrician. Or if you are starting from scratch, you will need to pay an engineer to certify the bus into a motorhome. There could also be diesel heater installers, air conditioner installers, solar installers, mechanics, panel beaters, glaziers, automotive tinters, and so much more! Not to mention registration costs after all that…

For our original Toyota Coaster, we had a budget of $40,000. This was to buy our Coaster, and fit it out.

Our bus cost $21,000. After buying this and adding up what we wanted for our electrical system, kitchen and bathroom, we quickly realised the costs were going to blow out. Eventually the end figure was closer to $60-$65,000.

However, we did purchase everything new, had no tools to start off with, and bought almost the top of the range of everything at the time. So we literally were starting from scratch!

Our biggest tip when starting your bus conversion is not to forget about the small stuff. It adds up! For our new Mercedes Vario build, so far we have spent almost $300 just on screws, bolts, and silicone alone! Not to mention we used any of the previous stuff we had left from the Coaster…

Roaming on Rubber - things you should know before doing a bus conversion

Time to build the bus and time of year –

Something to consider when you are looking to convert a bus into a motorhome is how long it will take to do.

If you have experience in building, have the funds on hand, and have the time than building a bus may only take you a few short months.

If, however, you are like us, with no experience and are still working, then the reality is it could take a lot longer. We had anticipated for our Toyota Coaster to take around 6 months. With work and life commitments, it ended up taking us 13 months to complete.

So it is definitely a good idea to be realistic with your timeframe. Keep in mind things like work, family commitments and holidays. Have a general goal and regular targets to keep your plan in line.

Trades like gas plumbers and electricians can also have long lead times. For our Mercedes Vario, we learnt to book well in advance. If you aren’t ready you can always reschedule as you get closer, but at least you are booked in just in case.

Another very important thing to consider is the weather. When building our Toyota Coaster, we did the majority of work in the Summer. Each day was well over 40 degrees Celsius and it slowed us down tremendously. When working outdoors in the heat (and also when its freezing in Winter!) it can be very difficult. Not only more physical exertion, but jobs like silicone and painting are not achievable.

In saying that, when working outside, the rain also affects what can be done too; roof hatches, and holes in the bus become no longer possible.

So that leads us into our next thing to keep in mind…

Where will you build the bus?

This is extremely important! Converting a bus into a motorhome takes space. It is a good idea to plan where you will build prior to purchasing a bus.  If you own or rent your property and have a large enough yard with a good storage shed or similar then you are set.

If like us, you do not and have nowhere to park a bus while you work on it, then you may need to look at other alternatives; family members, friends, rentals, or storage facilities. Try and think of things like electricity, water and shelter, and anything else that you may require.

Our Toyota Coaster was located 45 minutes away from where we lived. This meant that it was hard to do a few hours after work. We could only really work on it in full day blocks.

If you are lucky enough and can park it inside a large shed or undercover area, then the weather will not affect your build as much.

Another thing to keep in mind is that if you need to rent a property, or move elsewhere, then try and make sure you have close access to a decent hardware shop! Sometimes we ended up at Bunnings 3 or 4 times a day! Our current Mercedes Vario is located around an hour from a Bunnings, so we have to plan very carefully and make our trips worthwhile. This can be difficult as not everything always goes to plan.

Buying the bus itself, and what to look for –

Now we are definitely not mechanics, so if you have a trusted mechanic friend, best to take them with you! But there is a general list of things to look for when buying a second hand bus or motorhome.

Shape of the bus – A bus with curved walls makes building hard! Our Toyota Coaster walls were curved and everything seemed more difficult. One of the reasons we opted for a Mercedes Vario the second time round was the walls have much less curve to them!

Water damage/leaks – Check the bus floor/walls for water damage. If you see anywhere that may look like there is water damage this could be an indication of a leak. Leaks, depending where they are could be an easy fix. Replacing the entire floor due to water damage however is not, and can be costly!

Roaming on rubber- things you should know before doing a bus conversion

Rust – This may sound like a small thing, but rust is kind of like the tip of an iceberg; you may only be able to see a small bit on the surface, but there could be a whole heap underneath!

Surface rust is to be expected, especially on older vehicles, and with some sanding, and repair work can be fixed. When looking for rust, you want to be looking around things like the chassis, and the windows, or anywhere that could indicate a much larger or structural problem.

Transmission – Something small, but do you want a manual or automatic. Will it bother you driving either large distances?

Tyres – Check the tyres for acceptable tread, or any indication of uneven wear. Also have a look at the wheels/rims for any cracks or damage. Replacing 6 bus tyres isn’t cheap.

Chassis – As mentioned above, it is a good idea to check this for rust. This is the bones of the vehicle and you want it to be in good order. Also check to make sure there are no cracks, bends or repairs, to ensure no damage has been done.

Engine/leaks – Check the engine and see if there are any leaks or faults. When you take the vehicle for a test drive, return it and park in a different spot. This gives you the chance to look at the ground underneath where it was parked, to see if there is any oil or anything left behind.

Age of the bus and history – Always good to know the history of a vehicle and whether things like services and repairs have been up to date. Online checks can be done for a fee which will tell you if a vehicle has been written off/repaired.

Knowing what the bus was used for will give you a good indication of if it has had a hard life.

Again though, we are not mechanics, and this is very general information. It is best if you can have someone review the vehicle or go with you. Mechanics can be booked and charge a fee to perform a pre-purchase inspection.

Licence types –

One thing which may not even cross your mind when buying a bus to convert is what sort of licence is required.

C (Car): Vehicles up to 4.5 tonne Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM). Vehicles that seat up to 12 adults, including the driver.

LR (Light Rigid): Rigid vehicles with a GVM of more than 4.5 tonnes, but not more than 8 tonnes. Any towed trailer must not weigh more than 9 tonnes. Vehicles can carry more than 12 adults, including the driver.

MR (Medium Rigid): Rigid vehicles over 8 tonne GVM, but no more than 2 axles. Any towed trailer must not weigh more than 9 tonnes. Vehicles can carry more than 12 adults, including the driver.

HR (Heavy Rigid): Rigid vehicles over 8 tonne GVM, and 3 axles or more. Any towed trailer must not weigh more than 9 tonnes.

It is highly unlikely that you will require a licence other than those listed above. It ultimately depends on the weight, axles and towing capacity of your vehicle.

To give you an example, our Toyota Coaster had a GVM of 4.99 tonne, which falls into the LR licence category. This meant that Claire had to upgrade her licence in order to drive the vehicle; in turn costing more money.

Our new Mercedes Vario has a GVM of 8.2 tonne. This falls into a MR category licence – once again Claire had to upgrade further.

There are courses available for this, and typically cost upwards of $1000.

Just something to keep in mind is that the bigger and heavier you go, you may be required to upgrade your licence.

Roaming on rubber- things you should know before doing a bus conversion - claire driver training nsw

The design of the bus –

Before you go buying a bus and starting your bus conversion, it is a good idea to have an idea of a design or layout. If you have a general idea, then you will know what kind of bus and what size to look for.

There are a few factors which you should consider when designing your bus.

  • If you are going to be living in it full time, you should consider things such as a shower/toilet, full fridge, cooking facilities and storage. Whereas if you are going to be living in it part time, these things may not be as high a priority.
  • What are the seating requirements, and how many do you need to sleep.
  • Do you want to be able to live off grid? This means not requiring access to water or electricity and having your own onboard.
  • What is important to you? Living spaces, desk areas, entertaining space etc.

Once you have a general layout planned, you can work out what size bus might meet your requirements and this will narrow down the options available for you. Because we planned ahead we knew when changing from our Toyota Coaster to our Mercedes Vario that we would need a bus that was around 8m in length and at least 2m wide (It helps when you have done one before). This allowed us to narrow our search to a specific few vehicles.

Photo of drawn up plan for our Toyota Coaster bus conversion. Roaming on rubber- things you should know before doing a bus conversion

Are you going to start your bus conversion from scratch, or buy one already done and remodel?

There are pros and cons for both buying a bus and starting from scratch, or buying one that has already been converted.

If you buy a bus from scratch, they are typically cheaper than one already classed as a motorhome.

You then get to design it yourself and have everything as you want it. However, depending on your design, by the end of the build, it may end up costing a lot more than buying one already converted to a motorhome.

By building it yourself, you will know exactly what has been done to it, so if there are any problems, or any questions, you will have the answers the majority of the time or know where to look.

However, buying a bus and converting it from nothing is hard work. Do you have, or are you willing to learn the skills required? For example there is generally wood working, welding, plumbing, flooring and more.

Do you have the money? Even though the vehicle itself may be cheaper, turning it into a motorhome can be expensive. Having a budget, and expectations of things that could go wrong here is a must.

Do you have the time? If you are on a time limit, it may be much more beneficial to buy a bus already converted to a motorhome. If you can find one close enough to the design you are looking for, it could save you a lot of time and money if you only need to make minor adjustments, you just might not be getting exactly what you want.

Buying an already converted bus will still give you the luxury and convenience of buying a motorhome, but typically at a much cheaper price.

It’s a good idea to review all options to decide what is going to best match your budget, and any other restrictions.

Our final thing you should know is to enjoy it!

Converting a bus into a motorhome is hard! It is such an emotional journey. It is tiring, overwhelming, and will physically and mentally exhaust you. But it is also a fantastic time in life. If you do get the opportunity to do something like this, appreciate it, learn new skills, and take pride in what you accomplish.

You will watch so many Youtube videos, read blogs like this, join Facegroup groups and chat to other like-minded people. There are so many people these days who are looking for alternative lifestyles that this idea of bus conversions is booming.

When it gets hard, and it will get hard, just remember this, it might help to keep the motivation going!

Good luck ?

Shane and Claire removing the vinyl flooring in our Toyota Coaster bus conversion. Roaming on rubber- things you should know before doing a bus conversion

Filed Under: Bus Conversion Guides, Conversion How-To Tagged With: build a rv, building a toyota coaster motorhome, bus conversion, bus conversion budget, bus conversion design, bus conversion ideas, bus licence, motorhome budget, motorhome conversion, motorhome licence, school bus conversion, starting a bus conversion, things you should know before starting a bus conversion, things you should know before starting a schoolie, toyota coaster conversion, toyota coaster motorhome

Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – DIY Flyscreens

August 20, 2020 by Claire Edwards Leave a Comment

Toyota Coaster Bus Conversion - Pinterest Image - DIY Flyscreens

Something we really wanted to make for our Toyota Coaster motorhome, was flyscreens! Our bus has so many windows, and with cats, the possibility of opening one without a flyscreen was never going to happen. So flyscreens were a must.  

This is something that had been on our list from the very beginning and was one of the final things that needed to be done before we could officially move into the bus with the cats.  

So the next step was to decide if we wanted to build them ourselves, or if there was a pre-built option, or if we were going to get someone like Crimsafe to make and install them for us.  

After looking into it a little, we decided Crimsafe was a bit out of our price range, and whilst great for security, was not something we could make happen. We were getting to the end of our build, and the end of our budget!  

So we opted on the DIY flyscreen option. Surely it couldn’t be that hard? Correct! It was not!  

Not only was it super simple to do, it looks great, and was budget friendly. Oh, and of course cat friendly!  

So, what type of flyscreen is available for DIY? 

Here is a handy table I have made up which lists all the current flyscreen options available at Bunnings for the people looking to make them themselves.  

Flyscreen TypeFeatures
Fibreglass Good for general purpose uses  
Good visibility and airflow through the screen  
Good flexibility for DIY  
UV stabilised  
Cheapest option available  
Multiple widths available  
Aluminium  Heavy duty 
Extra Strength than standard fibreglass 
Good visibility through the screen  
Ember protection 
Easy DIY install  
Multiple widths available 
Petmesh Approximately 6 times stronger than standard fibreglass screen  
Heavy gauge  
Good flexibility for easy DIY 
Resistance to damage caused by pets claws   
Multiple widths available  
Tufflite Thicker wire and increased gauge than standard aluminium  
Ember protection  
Good resistance to extreme weather conditions 
Resistance to damage caused by pets and children  
Multiple widths available 
Stainless Steel Marine grade stainless steel  
Ember protections 
Corrosion Resistant 
Ideal for coastal or bushfire prone areas  
Good visibility through the screen  
Limited widths available  
Polyethylene High density plastic  
Strong and durable  
Corrosion Resistant – ideal for coastal areas  
Good visibility through the screen  
Good flexibility for easy DIY install  
Multiple widths available 
UV Guard  UV fibreglass material  
Approximately 68% UV blockage  
Good visibility through the screen  
Good airflow  
Multiple widths available  

So which flyscreen did we choose for our Toyota Coaster motorhome? 

We ended up choosing the aluminium fly screen. The main reasons we chose this one were; price, visibility and strength.   

Initially we were going to buy the petmesh – for obvious reasons that we have cats living with us in our motorhome. However, the pet mesh is approximately 50% more expensive than the aluminium and as it has a higher gauge, the visibility is not as good as we wanted. So we opted for the cheaper option, the aluminium. It is still strong and durable, whilst having good visibility – not blocking off those amazing views we are building this home for!  

Toyota Coaster bus conversion - Motorhome flyscreen DIY

Are we happy with our decision?  

For the most part, yes.

The aluminium has been great. It had good flexibility when we were building our fly screens, and the install was easy. The screens have withstood travel without issues, and being in and around coastal areas without corrosion.  

The cats have not been able to get through them (thankfully!), however, we have got a few small tear marks where they have gotten their claws stuck. Who knows if the pet mesh option would have been more durable here.  

So, what items are required to make the flyscreens yourself? 

  • Spline – foam or PVC  
  • Spline Roller 
  • Corner stakes (Corner brackets) 
  • Flyscreen frame 
  • Flyscreen of choice 
Toyota Coaster bus conversion - Motorhome flyscreen DIY

Tools required for DIY –  

  • Handsaw  
  • Mitre Box 
  • Measuring Tape 
  • Scissors or stanley knife 
  • Rubber Mallet  

What we needed to attach the flyscreen to our Toyota Coaster motorhome –  

  • Drill (and drill pieces) 
  • Stainless steel metal screws  

OR  

  • Drill (and drill pieces) 
  • Pop rivet gun 
  • Pop rivets  

Steps to make the flyscreen –  

  • Start by measuring your flyscreen frame to the size required for your motorhome.  

Note – make sure that the size required does not exceed the dimensions of your flyscreen of choice as you need to be able to do it in one piece.  

  • Once your flyscreen frame is measured up, use your mitre box and saw to cut to a 45 degree angle on each end. Be mindful of your orientation and make sure they are cut in the right direction.  
  • Once all of your flyscreen frame is cut, insert a corner bracket into one of the ends and gently hit with the mallet until completely in place.  
Toyota Coaster bus conversion - Motorhome flyscreen DIY
  • Repeat on the rest of the frame until they are all joined together.  
  • Cut your flyscreen of choice to size, allowing approximately 10-15cm each side overhang and lay into place over the frame.  
  • Starting from one of the corners, lay the spline into place in the frame and gently push down and roll into position using the spline roller.
  • Ensure the flyscreen stays in position during this process.  
  • Continue all the way around the frame. Make sure the flyscreen is kept taut and in position (it’s easy to go crooked here!)  
  • Once complete, cut the spline and push the last bit into position. You can now trim any excess flyscreen using scissors or a stanley knife.  
  • Repeat steps on all other screens.  
Toyota Coaster bus conversion - Motorhome flyscreen DIY

How we attached the flyscreens to our Toyota Coaster motorhome –  

On our Toyota Coaster, there is a metal frame around the edges of our windows. We used this as a guide for how big we wanted to make our flyscreens as this was going to be the point of attachment.  

Attaching it was relatively simple.  

We held it into position and pre-drilled holes. With our Coaster, we were careful to not go too close to where the glass would be behind the metal frame, just in the off chance we may damage it.  

Once the holes were pre-drilled we used stainless steel metal screws, and simply screwed the frame to the bus. Screws are a good option as they can always be removed at a later date (particularly if you have cats that may damage the screens!).  

The reason we used stainless steel was to ensure there would be no weather corrosion. 

Another option could have been to use pop rivets here.  

Toyota Coaster bus conversion - Motorhome flyscreen DIY

So that is the process of the flyscreens we built for our Toyota Coaster.  

Are we happy with them? YES! They look amazing, stop the bugs getting in, and our cats getting out!  

Would we do it ourselves again? YES! It was so simple, cheap and a great DIY option.  

If you want to check out the video of us making our flyscreens and attaching them to our Toyota Coaster motorhome, click below –  

Want to read more about our Toyota Coaster conversion? Check out our other posts here – https://www.roamingonrubber.com/blog-conversion-how-to/

Claire signature

Filed Under: Conversion How-To, Toyota Coaster Bus Conversion Tagged With: diy flyscreen, diy flyscreens, flyscreen how to, motorhome flyscreen, motorhome flyscreens, rv flyscreen, rv flyscreens, toyota coaster conversion, toyota coaster flyscreen, toyota coaster flyscreens, toyota coaster home, toyota coaster motorhome, toyota coaster rv

Can You Drive A Toyota Coaster On A Car Licence

July 25, 2020 by Shane Patmore 8 Comments

So you are wondering if you can drive a Toyota Coaster on a car licence. Short answer is yes. Long answer is… maybe?

The first step to knowing if you can drive a Toyota Coaster on a regular car licence (Class C) is understanding the Tare weight and Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) of a vehicle.

Tare: This is the weight of the vehicle when empty, except for all of its fluids and 10L of fuel

GVM: This is the maximum your vehicle can weigh when fully loaded. This includes everything you want to carry, passengers and fluids/fuel.

All vehicles will have a GVM rating.

Exceeding a vehicles GVM can come with heavy fines and is the main dictator of what each licence class can drive. The GVM listed on the plate of the vehicle is the law on the maximum the vehicle can weigh and what licence class is required to drive it.

Licence Classes

There are 7 licence classes in total as detailed on the RMS website https://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/roads/licence/driver/licence-classes.html

The main ones we want to focus on for a Toyota Coaster are Class C (Car) and LR (Light Rigid). However, MR (Medium Rigid) and HR (Heavy Rigid) may be relevant if you are looking at a larger bus for your conversion.

C (Car): Vehicles up to 4.5 tonne Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM). Vehicles that seat up to 12 adults, including the driver.

LR (Light Rigid): Rigid vehicles with a GVM of more than 4.5 tonnes, but not more than 8 tonnes. Any towed trailer must not weigh more than 9 tonnes. Vehicles can carry more than 12 adults, including the driver.

Each state will have its own website with details on licence classes. It is always worth checking your own states website to ensure you have the most up-to-date and accurate information.

Toyota Coaster

Toyota Coaster vehicle plate identifier - help in understanding if you can drive a Toyota Coaster on a car licence.

A Toyota Coaster, by default, has a GVM of 4990 and Tare weight of around 3300kg (Although the tare weight can vary widely based on model, engine, seats, door type etc). This puts it in the range of requirements of a LR licence class. But I am sure you, like us, have seen lots of Coasters that claim to be drivable on a car licence.

The GVM of a vehicle is able to be downgraded by an engineer. This will reduce the maximum load it can take but allow it to be driven on a lower licence class. In the case of a Toyota Coaster and a Class C licence, this would be downgrading the GVM to 4.5 tonne.

A Toyota Coaster (when referring to a Toyota Coaster on this blog we are generally talking about a Long Wheel Base (LWB) model unless specified) with all its seats removed weighs around 3000kg. This gives you around 1500kg for your conversion if you want to downgrade or 1990kg if you leave it as is.

Remember: GVM includes the bus fully loaded with fuel, water, people and heavy fines can be incurred if you exceed this limit.

Downgrading Your Toyota Coaster

To downgrade a vehicle you must take it to an Engineer to make any modifications required and to have it certified at the new GVM. You will need to take the bus over a weighbridge and get a weighbridge certificate to bring along with you to the engineer.

The engineer will install a modification plate on the vehicle certifying the new GVM, and issue you a modification certificate. Once any modifications are made, the RMS will need to be updated and new registration papers issued.

Toyota Coaster modification plate - help in understanding if you can drive a Toyota Coaster on a car licence.

You should always speak to the engineer who you plan to do the work to get the exact information and requirements. Ultimately, they have the final say on whether they can or will downgrade it.

It is not rare for a seller to downgrade a Toyota Coaster prior to sale, so make sure you double check the GVM to make sure it is the weight you are after.

Downgrading Before Your Conversion

Downgrading the GVM before converting your Toyota Coaster is a bit of a trickier process. Because of the seat limits of a car license being 12, you need to remove some seats prior to downgrading.

Once the seats are removed and holes filled, you can also have your bus changed to a panel van, along with reducing the GVM.

The issue with doing this prior to changing to a motorhome is you will need to pay an engineering fee twice, once to downgrade and change to panel van, then again to change to a motorhome.

Did We Downgrade Our Toyota Coaster?

We mentioned in some early blog posts that we would be downgrading our Toyota Coaster to be driven on a car licence. This did not end up eventuating and Claire ended up upgrading her licence to LR.

When we weighed our bus on the way to the engineer, to be downgraded, it weighed in at around 4200kg. This was not quite finished and did not have any of our personal belongings in it. We also wanted to add a split system air conditioner and a bull bar, which would all need to fit within the remaining 300kgs!

That was a bit too close for comfort.

We didn’t want to wonder if every souvenir we bought would take us over the limit.

Tips For Keeping Your Toyota Coaster Under 4.5 Tonne

While we did have it tougher having a custom rear door and wheel chair lift, unfortunately we can’t blame not being able to downgrade solely on that.

We thought about weight with everything we did, but we also thought it would be so easy that we would never reach 4.5 tonne. It turns out were not as careful as we should have been.

We also wanted everything:

  • Off-Grid Electrical System ✔
  • Shower and Toilet ✔
  • Full Sized Fridge ✔
  • 140L of Water ✔
  • Hot Water System ✔
  • Gas Bottles ✔
  • Large Lounge ✔
  • … the list goes on

If your requirements aren’t as extensive as ours you are going to have a much easier time. We also wanted our bus to look as little like a motorhome as possible and as much like a ‘house’ as possible.

This means we used a lot of wood, which isn’t the lightest option.

Our pine roof, while beautiful, was probably the heaviest thing we could have done for a roof. There are much lighter options: Composite aluminum panel, 3mm plywood/mdf panel, vinyl etc. A lot of people leave the roof that is already in the Coaster. This would prevent you from changing out the insulation, but keeps the weight down.

Melamine/MDF is heavier then plywood. This means all of our Melamine walls could have been Plywood and that would have shaved off some weight. We also used 7mm Plywood for the walls of the Coaster. At the time we wanted 4-5mm but it only came in marine ply which is expensive. Lots of people use 3mm or composite aluminium again.

We framed our lounge, kitchen and bed with pine timber. This is another case where wood is not the lightest option. Framing using aluminium tube is a much lighter option. However, we have no skills when it comes to metal work so we disregarded this straight away. But is a good idea if it is something you are capable of.

Kits like those from Noq Noq forgo extra framing all together. They are just made out of stylelite laminated plywood, often keeping completed conversions to around 4000kg.

You can save a lot of weight by going with lithium batteries compared to AGM. A 100AH AGM battery weights ~25kg compared to a 100AH Lithium battery of ~10kg. Lithium batteries can also deplete to 80% capacity where AGM can only deplete down to 50%. So you need a smaller battery to achieve the same level of real world usage.

Ultimately it will all come down to what you want and need to make your Toyota Coaster feel like your home.

There is certainly value in keeping a higher GVM and upgrading your licence to a LR. However, with careful consideration, driving a Toyota Coaster on a car licence absolutely can be done!

Filed Under: Conversion How-To, Toyota Coaster Bus Conversion Tagged With: building a toyota coaster home, building a toyota coaster motorhome, can you drive a toyota coaster on a car licence, keeping a toyota coaster under 4.5 tonne, toyota coaster car licence, toyota coaster conversion, toyota coaster licence, toyota coaster lr licence, toyota coaster motorhome, toyota coaster rv

Toyota Coaster Bus Conversion – Flooring

May 13, 2020 by Claire Edwards 1 Comment

RV Flooring - Roaming on Rubber Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion

The flooring for your bus conversion is not a hard job, however deciding on what you want to use can be.

There are many flooring options available, so we have compiled a list of available choices for you to compare. After this, we discuss the flooring option we chose, why we chose it, and how to install.

Flooring Options –  

ProsCons
CarpetCost 
Availability (so many options!) 
Easy installation 
Soft/warm underfoot  
Hotter during Summer  
More clean-up/vacuuming required  
Higher maintenance 
Vinyl Sheeting  Cost 
Waterproof 
Lightweight 
Easy installation 
Easy maintenance 
Availability/product range  
Thin 
Must be installed directly on the sub-floor; cannot have underlay or insulation underneath 
Doesn’t look ‘real’  
Vinyl Planks  Cost 
Most varieties waterproof 
Lightweight 
Easy installation 
Easy maintenance 
Hardwearing and durable  
‘Real’ wood look without the cost 
Thin 
Self-adhesive  
Possible heat shrink over time  
Must be installed directly on the sub-floor; cannot have underlay or insulation underneath 
LaminateCost 
Water resistant  
Hardwearing 
Availability/product range  
Easy installation 
Thicker than vinyl planks 
May not look ‘real’ 
TilesPhysically attractive 
Easy maintenance 
Cost 
Weight 
Harder installation 
Longer installation 
Fragile
Hardwood FlooringLooks amazing! 
Relatively easy maintenance  
Cost!  
Weight 
Installation harder and longer 
No FlooringCost  
Easiest option available 
Can just cover with mats/carpet/desired flooring 
No installation required 
May not be as physically nice as other options  
Unable to check sub-floor status 
Unable to lay underlay/insulation 

What flooring did we choose for our bus conversion?

Self adhesive vinyl planks from Bunnings.

Why? Cost, availability, look, ease, reviews!

A lot of people warned us against the vinyl planks, and said we will need to be careful; “They lift, they shrink, they don’t last!”. Gerflor even recommend not using the 2mm Senso Rustic product line in a caravan or motorhome for that reason. We of course learnt this after purchasing our floor boards.

However after speaking to a lovely lady at Choices flooring, she suggested we get around this by using a vinyl adhesive, and not just relying on the adhesive on the planks themselves.

The floor boards were cheap enough to risk giving it a go, so that’s exactly what we did.  

Guide to installing vinyl planks –  

Step 1 –  

Make sure your current sub floor is clean! That means no debris, nothing sticky, and no holes, or bumps. Try and fill any holes prior to putting the floor planks on, and if there are any raised bits, try and sand them down.  

If you haven’t read it already, and need to, we have another blog post here where we replace some of our damaged sub-floor.

Step 2 –  

Time to measure your planks. We strongly recommend measuring and cutting your planks prior to permanently sticking them down. This ensures there are no errors with measurements.

With these particular floor boards, the grain is directional. This means that they need to be laid and cut in a certain direction to make sure the pattern lines up. This helps to create the natural and ”life like” look. There were arrows on the underside of our planks to make sure we followed this direction.

It is up to you how many planks you want to cut in advance. We cut the whole floor to measure, and just sat them in place. They are easy to cut being so thin and can just be done by scoring with a Stanley knife, then “snapping” the plank.

Cutting and installing our rv floor - Toyota Coaster motorhome conversion

Step 3 –  

It’s time to apply the adhesive. Make sure you read your instructions as they may all differ.  

The one we used is a Dunlop vinyl adhesive from Bunnings. 

Move a couple of pieces of your floor planks at a time, starting from a straight edge. It is important to not do the entire floor in one go as the adhesive will dry too quickly before you have time to put them in place.  

We began ours from the edges of our wall and shower. This meant we started with the boards straight, and hopefully would finish with them straight!

For the adhesive we used, you need to apply an even coat using a ‘V’ notched trowel. You don’t need a lot, however make sure there is enough that it gets a good even coat. Allow this to sit for approximately 10 minutes, or until it becomes tacky.

Step 4 –  

Remove the paper on the back of your vinyl floor plank, and piece by piece lay into position and press firmly. You may even want to use a rolling pin or similar to roll over it so that you can ensure everywhere is pushed down firmly.  

Installing RV flooring - Toyota Coaster motorhome conversion

Step 5 –  

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until the floor is complete.  

Step 6 –  

Leave the floor to sit for approximately 24 hours prior to walking on it. This will allow the adhesion to set, and completely cure.

The planks will move under foot before they are fully cured, trust us we know!

And you are done!  

So while installing flooring into your bus conversion is not a hard process, it is a little time consuming, however 100% worth it.  

We have been living in out Toyota Coaster for a year now, and have not had any issues with our vinyl floor option. The planks have not had any shrinking, lifting or any other movement. Recently we decided to replace two of the boards due to some scratches we had made. The effort it took to remove the old boards confirms our belief that if you use vinyl adhesive you will definitely not have any issues with shrinking or lifting!

It is a good idea to have a few boards spare just in case.  

This small thing made such a huge difference and really made it start to feel like our home!  

Check out the video of us laying our flooring here ?:

Filed Under: Conversion How-To, Toyota Coaster Bus Conversion Tagged With: bus conversion, bus flooring, caravan flooring, motorhome floor, motorhome flooring, rv conversion, rv floor, rv flooring, toyota coaster conversion, toyota coaster floor, toyota coaster flooring, toyota coaster motorhome, toyota coaster rv

Toyota Coaster Bus Conversion – Plumbing Guide

February 24, 2020 by Claire Edwards 2 Comments

Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV Plumbing - Pinterest Image

There are many ways to design a caravan or RV plumbing system for your bus conversion.

It can range from something simple with a manual pump connected to a jerry can to an advanced system like what we have in our Toyota Coaster.

A system like the above is about as basic as it gets. It uses two portable water tanks (jerry cans), one for fresh and one for grey water. Upgrading the manual pump to a 12v/24v pump would improve the use of the system while still keeping it fairly simple.

This is a diagram of the plumbing in our Toyota Coaster bus

Starting from left to right, following the flow of water:

1 – Lockable Water Filler with 25mm Outlet

So that each water tank can be filled individually, two lockable water fillers are installed on the external of the bus. They connect to the water tank with a 25mm food grade hose, and a 10mm hose. The 10mm hose acts as a breather and helps the air release when the tank is being filled with water. This improves the speed in which the tank fills. Once water comes up this breather and back out the inlet, you know the water tank is full.

Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV Plumbing - Lockable Water filler

2 – Custom Coaster Conversion Water Tank (Fresh Water)

We installed two Custom Coaster Conversion water tanks underneath the bus behind the rear tyres. They carry approximately 70l of water each and are made from a food grade poly.

140L of water allows us to go around 4 days between filling up tanks.

Our tanks are setup to be filled separately by two water fillers and accessed individually by two pope in-line taps.

If you did want the water to pull from two or more tanks at the same time, you must ensure they are installed an equal distance from the pump. If they are not at equal distances, the pump will empty the closer one first, and then struggle to empty the second as it will continue to try and pull from the first. Alternatively some tanks can be installed as a primary and secondary, allowing the need for only one fill point.  

3 – Pope In-Line taps

The Pope In-Line taps allow each of our tanks to be isolated and used individually. When one tank is empty we switch over to the other tank manually and the pump pulls the water from the next one. Make sure these taps are installed in a location that is easily accessible as they will need to be changed regularly.

4 – Shurflo 4009 pump and filter

The water tanks are connected to the inlet of the Shurflo 4009 pump with 13mm drinking hose. From the outlet of the pump to all appliances, 12mm John Guest pipe and fittings are used. When using semi-rigid hosing, SHURflo recommends using 300mm of flexible hosing either side of the inlet and outlet to prevent vibration of the hoses (we have not used this and have not found it to be a problem).

The SHURflo pump requires a filter to be used for warranty. The pump does not require an accumulator to be used, which means it provides a consistent flow on its own and maintains a constant water pressure. If for some reason, you are finding that you are not able to maintain pressure you can still add one to help improve the water flow.  

RV Plumbing - Shurflo Pump

5 – John Guest One-Way Non-Return Valve

A non return valve is required when adding a mains water inlet. The one closest to the pump prevents mains water from entering back into the pump, and the one closest to the mains inlet prevents water from exiting back out the inlet. 

In other words, the non-return valves keeps the water flowing one way, in the direction it is supposed to.

6 – SHURflo Mains Pressure Regulator Water Inlet

A water inlet allows you to connect your bus conversion up to a mains water supply to use instead of your water tanks (for example, when parked at a caravan park). Our hot water system requires a pressure of no more than 50psi, so we installed a ‘Shurflo pressure regulating water inlet’ to regulate the pressure.

If you are using a standard inlet, a separate pressure regulator may need to be fitted. Make sure to check the specifications of your appliances to ensure any limitations are met.

To attach a regular garden hose/drinking water hose, from a mains supply to the inlet, a brass click-on to 3/4 NPT fitting is used. 

7 – Appliances (Suburban SW6DEA HWS, Dometic CTS 4110 Toilet, Camec 3KG Top Load Washing Machine, Kitchen Sink, and Shower)

12mm John Guest semi-rigid pipe is a flexible but firm water pipe that is perfect for use in a motorhome or bus conversion. It is used for to connect each appliance or tap in your plumbing system back to your water pump. The pipe runs underneath the bus, and in the walls and cabinets of our Toyota Coaster bus to our appliances.

Look at the instructions for each appliance you have and get a fitting that connects the john guest pipe to the required size (we will talk about the connections for each of our specific appliances below). 

Roaming on rubber rv dometic cassette toilet - toyota coaster motorhome conversion

8 – Custom Coaster Conversion Water Tank (Grey Water)

A grey water tank is used for all of the ‘dirty’ water to go. For example, water used during a shower, or the kitchen sink. The shower and sink are connected to the grey water tank with a 25mm hose. A sink trap is used on the kitchen sink to prevent smell from returning back from the tank. It is an ‘S’ shaped pipe which traps the smell in the bends and stops it coming back into the bus.

In the shower, non-return valves are used to prevent the grey water coming back up the drains and into the shower. This can happen when the shower outlet and tank inlet are at approximately the same height.  

Detailed Steps To Install Each Item For Your RV Plumbing – 

Please note – These steps assume you have installed your tanks under the bus, see our post here on how to do this.
Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – RV Fresh and Grey Water Tank Install

To avoid repeating over and over, assume all barb fittings have an appropriate sized hose clamp. All John Guest connections use the optional locking clip.

See the videos throughout the post on how to do most of these steps. These may be easier to follow.

Lockable Water Filler –  

  • First step is to locate where you would like to install the fillers for your fresh water tanks. As our fresh tanks are at the rear of our bus (behind the rear wheels), we chose to install them at the back, and around halfway up the side of the bus (above the floor line).  Using a metal hole saw piece for your drill, cut a 88mm sized hole where you have chosen. Make sure your hole-saw piece is just slightly bigger than your water filler so that it will sit in flush.  
  • (Ignore this step if your tanks are not installed under the bus floor). Start by drilling two holes in the internal floor of your bus near where you have just cut the hole in the wall (approximately 29mm and 13mm) this will be where you run your two hoses that go from the filler to the tank.  
Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV Plumbing - Inlet Holes
  • After you have cut your holes, feed the 25mm and 10mm hoses through the water filler hole, and then through your holes in the floor and down to your tank. You can now attach the hoses to the barb fittings on your tank. 
  • Now it is time to cut the hose where it is coming out of your filler hole. Make sure that it is not pulling too tight as you don’t want it to cause kinks. Attach the hoses to the barbed end of the water filler. 
  • Test putting water in the filler, to ensure there are no leaks, prior to attaching the filler to the bus wall to make it easier to correct any issues. Make sure the filler is orientated so that the breather is at the top.
  • The last step is to silicone the rim of the filler and place it in the hole you have cut on the bus. Drill 4 pilot holes in each corner marked on the filler, and then use stainless steel screws to fix to the bus (alternatively, we used pop rivets). 

Water Tanks and In-line taps – 

  • Find a spot where you will install your in-line taps and combine both tanks into the one feed. Make sure these taps are installed in a location that is easily accessible as they will need to be changed regularly.
  • To do this, combine a 25mm/20mm all female BSP ‘T’ connector with 2 male/male connectors. After this, connect 2 female/female elbow connectors. Then connect a 25mm BSP to 13mm Barb to all 3 ends. See picture below for a clearer idea as it sounds confusing! Mount this to the wall or floor where you have chosen. We mounted ours under our bed, above our water pump.
Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV Plumbing
Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV Plumbing -
  • Now it’s time to drill two ~15mm holes in the floor near where you will have your in-line taps, this is where you will run your hoses from the tanks. 
  • One side at a time, feed the hose through the hole and route to your tank. Connect to the 13mm barb on your tank. 
  • Cut the other end of the hose where you have chosen to have your in-line taps. After you have cut it, connect the end to one side of the in-line tap and run another small piece of hose from the other end of the tap to one side of your 3 end join. 
  • Repeat for the other tank. 

SHURflo 4009 and Filter – 

  • Start by connecting the filter to the inlet side of your pump (only hand tighten). 
  • Then attach the 13mm hose to the middle part of your 3 ended joiner. 
  • Next, cut this hose near the filter and attach to the barbed end of the filter. 
  • Finally, attach 1/2 BSP to 12mm John Guest and connect to the outlet side of your water pump.

Mains Inlet and Non-return valves –

  • Install the mains inlet the same way as the water fillers above, using a 88mm metal hole saw in the desired location. We installed ours next to one of the water fillers and near where our water pump was located.
  • Attach a 1/2 inch BSP to 12mm john guest fitting to the outlet of the mains inlet.
  • Run a small piece of 12mm john guest pipe, then connect this to a john guest non-return valve
  • Run another small piece of 12mm john guest pipe to a T connector
  • Connect another end of the T connector to a non-return valve that then connects back to your water pump

You can now run blue John Guest hose from your water pump to all of your appliances, using ‘T’, Elbow and Y connectors. I will assume all hose has been run for the remainder of the appliances and just talk about the connections.

All John Guest hot water hose connections need the optional plug inserted. 

How to use John Guest Push-On fittings:

To make a connection, the tube is pushed in by hand; the john guest locking system then holds the tube firmly in place.

1. Cut the pipe square and remove any burrs or sharp edges. Ensure the outside diameter is free of score marks

2. Push the pipe into the fitting, to the pipe stop

3. Pull on the pipe to ensure it is secure. Test the system before use

4. To disconnect, push the collet (the collet is the moveable ring at the top of the fitting) against the fitting. With the collet held in, the pipe can be removed.

Suburban SW6DEA Hot Water System – 

  • Start by connecting the brass 1/2inch to 12mm John Guest fittings (we used elbow connectors) to the cold water inlet and hot water outlet on the back of your hot water system. It is important you use brass, as it is required to comply to watermark certification. 
Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV Plumbing - HWS
  • Then connect the cold water and hot water hoses to the connectors, as marked on your system.
  • From here run hot water hose to required appliances using ‘T’, Elbow and ‘Y’ connectors like the cold water hoses. 
Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV Plumbing - HWS

Dometic CTS 4110 Toilet –

The Dometic CTS 4110 toilet requires a 1/2inch NPT connector which is unavailable in Australia. After much research it seemed that 1/2inch was the only size fitting that could be interchanged between BSP and NPT. So we had to connect the 1/2inch BSP/NPT to 12mm John Guest fitting and then connect the hose. We found ours dripped very slightly (we blame the BSP) so to try to alleviate this problem, we wrapped it in silicone tape to form a seal.  

Camec 3KG Top Load Washing Machine – 

  1. When we asked a caravan parts store for a BSP to John Guest fitting of the right size, we were told that all Caravans, (and therefore we should) install the washing machines with a standard brass tap, similar to a house. It is a good idea as it allows you to turn the water on and off to the washing machine separately. Mount your tap with screws to the desired place on your wall.
  2. Then, attach the 1/2inch BSP to John Guest fitting to the inlet of the tap. 
  3. Finally, attach the standard washing machine hose to the outlet of the tap and turn tap on (We do not recommend turning it on all the way, we haven’t found an exact amount/pressure but just turned it on a rotation or so. We found too much water pressure causes there to be a leak at the connection points).

Kitchen Sink/Faucet – 

  • Start by attaching a 1/2inch BSP to John Guest fitting to the cold and hot water inlet (on the end of the flexible metal hose of the tap).  
Toyota Coaster bus conversion - RV Plumbing - Sink connections

Our sink, being a standard kitchen sink, came with a 50mm outlet. A caravan specific sink will come with a 25mm outlet which can be run straight to your greywater.

If you would like to connect a S trap for your RV plumbing like we have, you can purchase a 25mm to 50mm step up then follow our instructions below.

  • Then attach the S trap to the 50mm waste of the sink.
  • Next, install the 50mm to 25mm adaptor to the bottom of the S trap. It may be a better idea to step down in smaller increments if your supplier has a way of doing that. We are concerned of waste build up on the shelf of this adaptor, however did not have an alternate option at the time.
  • Finally, connect the 25mm waste hose and run it to the grey water.  

Shower –

  • Start by connecting a Sharkbite Copper Lugged Elbow 1/2inch to Sharkbite Copper Straight Connector 1/2inch  with copper pipe.
  • After this, drill a 13mm hole in your shower wall where you want your shower head connection to be and insert the copper lugged elbow into this hole. 
  • Then, attach a 1/2inch BSP to John Guest fitting to the end of your Sharkbite Copper Straight Connector. 

Our shower has a single tap that controls hot and cold. The next few steps of instructions may vary slightly if your hot/cold tap are separate.  

  • Start by using a jigsaw or drill to make a hole large enough to install your tapware. For us we traced around the hole for the plate that fit around ours, and cut a hole with the jigsaw. Install the connection for your tapware into the hole. 
  • Attach 1/2inch BSP to John guest fittings to all 3 BSP ends of the ‘T’ piece that came with your shower tap. Connect your hot water and cold water John Guest hoses to the ends of the ‘T’. 
  • Next, connect a John Guest hose from the top of the ‘T’ connector to the bottom of the Sharkbite Copper Straight Connector. 
  • Attach your showerhead and tapware to the fittings.

Shower Grey Water –

  • The custom coaster shower base is designed to fit the ‘SMEV straight waste’ outlet. Silicone the rim of your ‘SMEV straight waste’ and install this into the pre-cut holes in the shower base.  
  • Next, attach a 25mm hose to the waste outlet.  
  • Finally, join the waste hoses together with ‘T’ Connectors. Once all the hoses are converging to a single point, install a 25mm non-return valve.

Grey Water Tank –  

  • Start by connecting the 25mm hose from the sink waste and shower waste non-return valve with a ‘T’ connector. Run a hose from the ‘T’ connector to the 25mm to 3/4inch BSP installed into your grey water tank.
  • Next, connect a 10mm hose to the barb fitting on the tank to act as a breather. This will assist with draining your sink and shower grey water. Drill a hole in your floor and run the hose up along your shower wall, that is higher than waste outlets.

If you want to be safe from leaks you can drill a hole into your shower and feed the hose into this. That way if the grey water fills and starts coming up your breather, it will drain into your shower. 

Conclusion

Plumbing for your bus conversion can be tricky! There are a lot of variables and each situation is unique. We have tried to be as thorough as possible, and have included links to our videos, and items so that you can view to hopefully make things easier. If you would like more information or something is confusing, please send it through to us via the ‘Contact Us’ section and we will try to help ?

Filed Under: Conversion How-To, Toyota Coaster Bus Conversion Tagged With: camper water tanks, caravan plumbing, caravan plumbing fittings, caravan water tank fittings, caravan water tanks, grey water tank, motorhome plumbing, rv grey water, rv plumbing, rv plumbing basics, rv plumbing diagram, rv plumbing fittings, rv toilet, toyota coaster conversion, toyota coaster home, toyota coaster motorhome

Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – RV Fresh and Grey Water Tank Install

January 16, 2020 by Claire Edwards 2 Comments

Roaming on Rubber - Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion - Grey Water Tank Pinterest Pin

Our RV fresh and grey water tanks were by far the most frustrating thing to install in our Toyota Coaster motor home to date.  

For those who do not know what RV grey water is and why you do or don’t need a tank, this next little bit is for you. And don’t worry! I had absolutely no idea before this whole process either!  

WHAT IS RV GREY WATER?  

RV grey water is any water that has been used in your motor home and would normally go down a sink or drain. For example, water from washing up, showering, or laundry.  

DO I NEED A GREY WATER TANK?  

This part is up to you.  

Most RV’s or caravans have either a tank to catch the grey water, or a hose that takes the water from the source and lets the water out on the ground.  

If you decide not to have a grey water tank, you can use a bucket instead. This is placed under the hose to catch the water and dispose of it elsewhere. While at first this is an easier and cheaper option, it does mean you are not classed as ‘fully self-contained’.

WHAT IS ‘FULLY SELF-CONTAINED’? 

Being fully self contained means you are not relying on anyone or anything else. You do not need access to power, water, or a toilet, and you do not leave anything when you leave. This includes water on the ground!  

The benefit of being fully self-contained is that you are not relying on others for access to resources. This means that you have more options to stay and park your motor home. After being on the road for some time now, we have found that so many of the free places to stay require you to be fully self-contained for this reason; that you do not need anything, except for somewhere to park.

This is the main reason we decided to build our bus with a grey water tank, and have decided after being on the road for a while it was definitely worth the effort.  

HOW DO I DISPOSE OF MY GREY WATER? 

Grey water tank disposal is simple! It is done at the same place you empty your motor home toilet; an RV dump point. Dump points are readily accessible and we have found using the Wikicamps App helps us to easily locate where they are.

If you decide to install a grey water tank, you can get the water from the tank and into the dump point via a grey water hose.

The grey water hose we purchased is a 10 metre, 25mm corrugated sullage hose from Caravans Plus. Even though this has worked well for us, it is quite difficult to connect to the 25mm barb on the tank and needs to be soaked in hot water first. A lot of people have since suggested that a normal 25mm PVC hose will do the trick, without these connection issues.

WHAT FRESH AND GREY WATER TANKS DID WE GET? 

The fresh and grey water tanks were one of the first things we purchased and were bought from Custom Coaster Conversions. (Unfortunately they are no longer available here, however we have provided some alternative options below).

They are made from foodgrade poly, and measure approximately 600X380X380mm.  

Each tank holds 70 litres. We have two tanks for our freshwater, and one for our greywater. 

These RV tanks are specifically designed to fit underneath a Toyota Coaster bus, in front, and/or behind the rear wheels.  

You have the option to get RV water tanks a similar size to this, or to measure up your space and have a tank installed inside or elsewhere on your motor home. We have seen so many people who install tanks underneath their bed, lounge, or even on their roof.  

Whilst ours was marketed as a tank specific for a Toyota Coaster and is no longer available, there are a lot of other tank options out there. Companies such as Caravan RV Camping and Caravans Plus are a good start for generic tanks. There are also places that do custom sizes such as Atlas Tanks, and whilst we have not used them, a company called RV Tanks Australia look to have tanks specific for Toyota Coasters as well. Either way, a little research will help you to find one that works best for you. 

HOW TO INSTALL THE FRESH AND GREY WATER TANKS 

  • Step 1 –  

It’s time to get down and dirty and look underneath your Toyota Coaster and work out what space you have available, and where you can mount brackets to.  

If you purchase the same RV water tanks as we did, they fit very well either behind or in front of the rear wheels.  

Test that they sit snug up underneath the bus prior to making brackets, or any fittings to your tank. Its best to be safe and know they fit!

  • Step 2 –  

Once you have established a spot for your water tanks, the easiest thing to do first is to drill a hole for your breather (if your tank does not already have one). A breather is a spot where the air in the tank can escape, and allow you to fill them up with water instead. It reduces the pressure in the tanks, and allows them to fill quicker. It is important the breather is at the highest point possible on the tank, otherwise it will just leak water!

The tanks we purchased for our fresh and grey water do not already have this pre-built in them. So if you decide to create your own, or purchase one like ours, you will need to make this yourself.

For our breather, we used a 10mm barb to 3/4 inch BSP fitting.

Roaming on Rubber - Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion - Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber – Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Grey Water Tank

To make our breather fit, we started with a 20mm spade piece to make a hole. Remember, it is important the breather is as high as possible on the tank. Once you have the hole cut, insert and silicone the breather in place. It is best to use a good quality silicone such as an automotive or marine one for this. We have since had issues with the breathers coming off and have had to re-attach.

Roaming on Rubber - Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion - Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber – Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Grey Water Tank
  • Step 3 –  

 Our water tank came with a spot already for a water inlet. So the next step for us was simply just screwing in our water inlet. This one we used is a 3/4 to 1 inch barb.

After this, we attached a 3/4 inch to 13mm barb to a pre-existing hole for the connection to our water pump.

Roaming on Rubber - Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion - Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber – Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Grey Water Tank
  • Step 4 –  

Now that your tanks are ready to go under the bus it is time to work out some support pieces.

Underneath our Toyota Coaster, behind our rear wheels on the outside edge, there is not a lot of structural spots to attach brackets for a water tank. For us, that meant we needed to attach a piece of 30mm X 30mm angled steel between two structural pieces for support.

This piece was pre drilled and bolted into place using M8 hi tensile bolts.

Roaming on Rubber - Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion - Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber – Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber - Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion - Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber – Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Grey Water Tank
  • Step 5

Finally it is time to get the water tanks into place.

Each water tank requires 2 brackets; each bracket is made up of 3 pieces of 50mm flat bar steel, purchased from Bunnings.

It is easiest to prop your tanks up into place as there is no exact measurement; each piece will need to be measured and adjusted as you go.  

Roaming on Rubber - Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion - Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber – Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber - Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion - Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber – Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber - Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion - Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber – Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber - Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion - Grey Water Tank
Roaming on Rubber – Toyota Coaster Motorhome Conversion – Grey Water Tank

The pieces are cut and hammered into shape according to where your tanks are positioned. After this they are then bolted to the shazzy using the same M8 hi tensile bolts.

Once all of your RV grey water and fresh water tanks are in place, it is time for plumbing, the job we enjoyed most – NOT!  

Watch the fresh and grey water tank install on Youtube here 🙂

Filed Under: Conversion How-To, Toyota Coaster Bus Conversion Tagged With: bus conversion, camper water tanks, grey water tank, motorhome grey water, rv fresh water, rv grey water, rv grey water tanks, school bus conversion, toyota coaster conversion, toyota coaster home, toyota coaster motorhome

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Childhood Sweethearts || Travel Bloggers || Coaster Bus Renovators || Australian Photography || Van Life || Entrepreneur || www.roamingonrubber.com 🐱

Last weekend (8/7) I got to marry my best friend i Last weekend (8/7) I got to marry my best friend in front of a small crowd of our nearest and dearest at a beautiful alpaca farm in Broke NSW.

This year has been a massive roller coaster for us. We’ve lost loved ones, our bus is still at the mechanic which isn’t looking to change soon, and our run-around car just recently died. But we have also just gotten married and got to surprise everyone with the announcement that we will soon be welcoming another member to the Roaming on Rubber family.

We keep reminding ourselves that these setbacks aren’t the end of the world and as long as we are together we know it’s going to be okay.

-Shane

The day wouldn’t have been as perfect as it was without our amazing vendors.
Would easily recommend any of them again, special shout outs to @chameleoneventhire , who went above and beyond to keep the night running smoothly, and @benjonescelebrancy who crafted the perfect story and ceremony for us.

Location: @starlinealpacasfarmstayresort 
Celebrant: @benjonescelebrancy 
Photographer: @weddingsxmemories 
Event staff: @chameleoneventhire 
Food: @woodfiredpizzacompany and @the_gelato_man 
HMUA: @cmphairartistry 
Suits: @mb__apparel 
Dress: @bellesandbeauxbridal 
Alterations: Just Perfect Alterations
Ties: @peggyandfinn
Some harsh realities of Bus life and our worst fea Some harsh realities of Bus life and our worst fears came to head on Friday.

We have been pretty quiet on social media the last few months while we waited and waited with bad news after bad news. Just as we were nearing the end and looking like we may be back on the road soon, we got the news that our bus’ engines block is cracked right through and that we have no repair options.

It’s a new engine or nothing.

So we aren’t sure what our plan is and if/when we will get back on the road as we can’t really afford that.

We are just trying to stay positive, and work out our next steps.

Thank you to people who have messaged asking where we have been, it means a lot.

For now we have started a short lease on a rental so not up to too much post worthy but hopefully we will be back on our feet in no time.
We’ve had a few setbacks so been a little quite We’ve had a few setbacks so been a little quite recently but we are almost finished! Cleaned for the valuation so thought we’d give you a look. Let us know what you think!
Not much work to go now! We just need to finish t Not much work to go now! 
We just need to finish the bathroom, build a kitchen overhead, add some trim and doors, and do a bunch of painting. Surely that won't take too long? 😂😂😂

#busconversion #vanconversion #buslifeaustralia #buslifeau #vanlifestyle #vanlifemovement #vanlifer #vanlifeideas #vanlifeaustralia #homeonwheels #homeiswhereyouparkit #thisisvanlifeing #vancrush #offgrid #busbuild #vanbuild
Sorry for the delay in posting! We have been so bu Sorry for the delay in posting! We have been so busy building the bus it has put us a little behind with our updates.
But our new desk is in! 
Made from the same Vic Ash wood as our kitchen bench, this beauty is long enough for us to both share the space 😊

#buslifeaustralia #busconversionaustralia #vanlife #vanlifeaustralia #busconversion #buslifeau #homeonwheels #homeiswhereyouparkit #thisvanlifeing #vancrush #busbuild
We loved our old wooden roof in the coaster so hav We loved our old wooden roof in the coaster so have just finished installing the same panneling in the Vario.

Plan is to paint it white this time rather then staining it.

Putting this in has really made us realise how much more space there is.

It's coming up great if we do say so 😁
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