Designing your converted bus or van electrical system is perhaps one of the most challenging parts of the ‘design phase’. There is so many components and there is no one-size-fits-all approach. What works for us may be overkill for you. What works for someone else, may not meet your needs.
You also get what you put in. You can build a system for $1500 or $15000, and neither way is right or wrong. It all comes down to what you need and what you can budget for.
Below we have put together a comprehensive guide starting with some of the fundamentals, and going through each component, that aims to help you to build and plan out your own system.
If after reading through you are still unsure or want someone to cast another set of eyes over your design, any auto electrician should be able to help. There are also those that specialise in electrical systems for motorhome conversions such as Langshore Power or Zero Grid Australia.
Fundamentals of Electricity
Watts
A watt (W) is a unit of electrical power. It is the amount of energy an item needs to function and the rate at which energy is consumed. Watts are the main way to identify the power consumption of your devices.
The most important equation to remember when designing your electrical system is:
Watts = Volts x Amps
A common analogy to help with understanding this is to think of electricity running through a wire like water flowing through a pipe.
Voltage (V) = The pressure pushing the water through the pipes
Amps (A) = The width of the pipe or the ‘flow rate’
This would give you the total amount of water passing through (‘Watts’).
For example, a 1000w device connected to a 240V outlet will draw 4.16A. If it was connected to a 12V outlet, it would draw 83.33A.
Watt Hours and Amp Hours
Energy is measured in the amount of power used per hour. This is measured in Watt hours (Wh) or Amp hours (Ah).
A Watt hour is the consumption of watts per hour. Amp hour is the consumption of amps per hour.
Using our 1000w device again, running it for 1 hour will consume 1000Wh. If connected to a 12v battery it will consume 83.33Ah.
Deep Cycle batteries are typically rated in Amp hours. It is easier though to calculate your Watt hours due to device power consumption being given in Watts. Once you have calculated your Watt hours, you can then convert to Amp hours.
Once you know the consumption of Amp hours of your device, you can work out how much it will drain your battery.
Direct Current (DC) and Alternating Current (AC)
Direct Current
Direct Current (DC) is the flow of electricity in one direction. Batteries store power using direct current, which is why it is the main current used in vehicles, including motorhomes and caravans.
This means most appliances designed for caravans and motorhomes will use DC power. This will usually mean wiring direct to the appliance or plugging them into a cigarette lighter or USB.
For caravans and motorhomes this is typically 12V or 24V (more on this below).
Alternating Current
Alternating Current (AC) is a type of electricity that can flow in different directions. This is the power that runs through power lines and to the outlets in your home. The main reason AC became the standard for households was due to being more efficient to travel over greater distances. This means that household appliances are designed to plug into AC outlets. For Australia these outlets are 240V.
Due to batteries using DC power you will need to decide if you want to support 240V appliances or not. The first step would be looking at all the DC powered items available and see if there is anything that you can’t get, but need. These days there is typically a 12V/24V option for most appliances. The DC options are usually more energy efficient, however they are much more expensive.
If you decide that you need AC power in your bus conversion you will need an ‘inverter’. This takes the 12V/24V of your battery and converts it to AC power. An electrician can then run this to AC outlets or direct to the appliance depending on what is required.
In general, using an inverter results in about a 10% efficiency loss which should be taken into account when calculating battery and solar requirements.
Identifying Battery and Solar Requirements
You can use the solar system of your bus conversion to power as little as a 12V cooler and fan, to all the luxuries of home such as a large fridge, laptops, monitor, and a household split system air conditioner like us.
However, the more you want, the more you need to be prepared to spend big on your bus or van electrical system. Compromises need to be made, and if you find your system is larger than you were expecting, try looking for more efficient alternatives, or you might need to cut some unnecessary electronics.
Unfortunately, that air fryer you love so much might not be able to come with you.
Check out what was in our Toyota Coaster here.
12V or 24V DC System?
Most bus or van electrical systems will be 12V DC, although you can go 24V. There are more items available that run off 12V DC, however there are some advantages to going 24V such as, smaller wire required and less voltage drop for a length of wire. This is particularly relevant if you have a large inverter or a large solar array.
A common reason you might choose 24v is if you also want to charge off your starter battery. Battery combiners (more on this below) are 12V to 12V or 24V to 24V and are a cost effective way to charge from your starter battery. You will need to know the voltage of your starter batteries if this is something you want. For a Toyota Coaster, the starter battery is 24V and this is ultimately why we went with a 24V system. You can also save money on things like solar chargers as they do not need to be as powerful.
The good thing is that even if you do go 24V you can still use 12V appliances through a 24V to 12V converter. This can result in around a 20% efficiency loss and should be calculated in when identifying the power usage of your appliances.
Now that you know if you are going 12V or 24V, if you will have 240V AC appliances, and if you need a 12V converter, you can calculate your requirements.
Calculate your total power consumption
| Device/Item | Watts | Hours | Watt Hours* | ||
| x | = | ||||
| x | = | ||||
| x | = | ||||
| x | = | ||||
| x | = | ||||
| x | = |
*Add 10% if running on AC for Inverter inefficiency. Add 20% if running on a DC to DC Converter
Calculate required battery size
| Daily Watt Hours | Daily Amp Hours | ||
| /12 (or 24) | = |
AGM batteries deteriorate faster if you go below 50% capacity, where Lithium (LifePo4) can realistically drop to 80% or even 100%. Therefore if using AGM your battery capacity will need to be double the amp hours required.
Calculate Solar Panel Requirements
| Daily Watt Hours | Daily sun hours (4 if unsure) | Solar Requirements | ||
| / | = |
This would be the minimum recommended solar power based off your power usage. If using a PWM charge controller you may need more due to less efficient charging when compared to a MPPT charge controller (more information on charge controllers below).
While these are good baselines there are many variables to factor that make it almost impossible to create a one size fits all approach. If most of your usage is at night, you will need a larger capacity battery to last until the sun rises again in the morning.
The unpredictability of weather is something that can’t be worked into an equation, so you need to be prepared. If you have large power requirements, you will want to look at alternate charging sources like charging while you’re driving or a mains power inlet.
Use these as a reference and it’s better to over prepare then under in our experience.
Choosing Parts For Your Bus or Van Electrical System
Solar Panels
Solar Panels (also known as ‘PV Panels/Array’) are made up of solar cells. These are made of layers of silicone, typically mounted under tempered glass with a rigid frame.
There is lots of different solar panels on the market, and some are more efficient than others.
There are a few key differences to keep in mind when choosing solar panels:
- Rigid vs Flexible solar panels
- Fixed vs Portable solar panels
- Solar panel cell type: monocrystalline vs polycrystalline
- Parallel vs Series
Rigid vs Flexible (Thin Film) solar panels
Rigid panels are the typical ones mentioned above, cells covered by tempered glass and mounted to a rigid frame. They are more durable and less expensive per watt.
Flexible solar panels use a much thinner cell allowing them to be flexible and able to bend up to 30 degrees. These have an advantage of being more lightweight and much easier to install. They will conform to the shape of your roof and can be installed just using silicone. They are more susceptible to scratches and other damage due to not having a layer of strong tempered glass.
A rigid panel should be mounted with a gap underneath to allow air to flow under the panel and help dissipate heat, allowing the panel to work at peak efficiency and not overheat. This is not possible on a flexible panel and can cause them to heat up and work less efficiently or even become damaged.
Fixed vs Portable solar panels
Fixed solar panels are permanently mounted to the roof of your vehicle. They are more convenient then portable panels once installed and take up less internal storage. Theft can be a problem for portable panels, especially if left unattended.
The advantage of portable panels are that you are able to position them in the sun. Solar panels do not work well in the shade, so when mounted to the roof you need to decide if you need shade from the heat or power.
Portable panels can get quite large when looking for a panel over 200w.
Often people will mount a few fixed panels to the roof and have the ability to connect an additional portable panel if required.
Monocrystalline vs Polycrystalline
The cells of Monocrystalline panels are made from a single crystal of silicone, which reduces the resistance on the electrons that flow through allowing for increased efficiency. This makes monocrystalline panels the premium option but at an added cost.
Polycrystalline panel cells are made from multiple crystals of silicone, making them less efficient but a cheaper option for the budget conscious.
Parallel vs Series
When installing your panels you will need to decide if you are installing them in parallel or series.
Wiring the panels in series combines the voltage of all panels. This is generally needed when the individual panels are the same voltage as your battery system. If you aren’t getting enough sun to output a high enough voltage your panels may not effectively charge your batteries.
Parallel has advantages in shadier conditions. When a panel in series is partially covered by shade, all panels drop their output to match the lowest. This does not occur in parallel, so if one panel is shaded, all other panels operate at normal capacity.
Parallel wiring requires fusing before the junction in case one shorts. Wiring becomes more complicated as you need thicker wire due to an increase in amps, which you also need to be mindful of the length of wire due to voltage drop.
Voltage can be affected by sun angle, coverage due to shading, as well as temperature, so make sure your voltage is high enough that you will not have issues charging your batteries. The input voltage needs to be approximately 5V higher than your batteries to allow charging.
Note: Anything over 120V will need a licensed electrician to install
We installed the panels on our Toyota Coaster in series as each panel had a similar voltage to our batteries, so we needed the higher voltage to effectively charge them. While the issue with shading is often listed as a major disadvantage to series wiring, we did not find the real world effects to be significant, and if there was serious shading we could just move the bus to fix the issue.
Remember: If the voltage of your panels is lower than the voltage of your batteries they won’t charge.
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| Renogy 200w 12v Solar Panel | – Good value – Small size – Reputable brand | Check Price | eBay |
| REC Alpha Solar Panel | – Large capacity – Monocrystalline – Extra frame support bars – Good value per watt | REC Alpha Pure (Purchasable through a solar dealer) |
Charge Controllers
A charge controller takes the energy produced by your solar panels and uses it to charge your battery. They come in two types, MPPT (Maximum power point tracking) and PWM (Pulse Width Modulation).
A MPPT charger is nearly a must for a motor home these days. A MPPT charger can be considered a ‘smart charger’ compared to a PWM charger. A PWM charges at a voltage just above the battery voltage, where a MPPT charges at the panels maximum voltage. A MPPT charger can also adjust its voltage based on bulk, absorption and float, whereas a PWM controller must switch on and off to manage the power delivered.
PWM chargers are cheaper if price is absolutely critical, but the above makes a MPPT charger much more efficient and therefore the recommended choice for motor homes, caravans and bus conversions.
Lithium batteries require a special charging profile to get the maximum benefits and protect its lifespan. Ensure the controller you choose is compatible with Lithium (LifePo4) batteries. Most controllers will have selectable charge profiles for your battery chemistry (Gel, AGM or Flooded), but only some will include Lithium.
To properly size your charger, it will have two ratings, a maximum voltage and a maximum charge current (amps):
EG: The Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/50 Solar Controller can have a maximum input voltage of 100V and maximum charge current of 50amps
Once you know what panels you are getting and how you will be wiring them, you can work out the maximum voltage and charge current of your solar panels, then select an appropriately sized charger.
Recommended Products
| Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/50 | – Wide range of models for variety of input voltage and amps – Lithium profile – Remote control and monitor via Bluetooth – Top of the class solar brand | Check Price |
| Enerdrive DC2DC Battery Charger | – DC-DC and MPPT charger in one – Lithium profile – Reputable Australian brand | Check Price (12v) Check Price (24v) |
Batteries
Batteries are an essential part of modern-day motorhomes. They allow you to store energy when you aren’t generating any to power devices. This allows you to continue to use your devices when you aren’t driving, aren’t plugged in, or don’t have any sunlight.
When choosing a deep cycle battery (Batteries used in motorhomes) the 3 main choices are:
- Flooded/Wet Cell
- AGM
- Lithium (LifePo4)
Flooded/Wet Cell
Both Flooded/Wet Cell and AGM batteries are Lead Acid batteries. To avoid deteriorating the battery, they should not be regularly discharged/used below 50% of their total capacity. This is known as the ‘Depth of Discharge’. The less you discharge, the longer a battery will last.
This is important to keep in mind as going with Lead Acid will mean needing a bank that is twice the size of your required amp hours.
Flooded or Wet Cell batteries are the oldest type and the cheapest batteries available for your system. They require more maintenance than AGM or Lithium as they need liquid to operate, which needs to be monitored and topped up regularly.
They must be stored upright to prevent leaking and require ventilation as they release a toxic gas as they charge.
AGM
Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) batteries are the most common type of battery found in motorhomes. They can draw more power and charge at a higher rate than Wet Cell batteries, although can cost up to twice as much.
They do not require the maintenance and ventilation that Wet Cell batteries do, and they also don’t need to be completely upright. This makes them a more attractive option if price is not the number one determining factor. The main disadvantage is weight and a lower lifespan which means they need to be replaced every few years.
Lithium
Lithium Ion (LifePo4) are relatively new to the market of batteries used in motorhomes. They have many advantages over Lead Acid batteries. They are significantly lighter, have better discharge limits, more efficient charging, and have a longer life.
This all comes at a price, with lithium batteries costing 2-4 times more than similar sized AGM batteries.
Even though they are more expensive, lithium batteries can be discharged to 80% of the capacity without significantly shortening their life. They can also last up to 10 years, meaning they need to be replaced a lot less then AGM batteries. So it is not fair to compare them directly to AGM batteries.
Lithium batteries come as a ‘drop-in’ battery like AGM and Wet Cell batteries. These allow you to connect straight to your chargers and loads and you’re good to go. We recommend a drop-in lithium battery for most systems where you can afford the outright cost.
Care must be taken with drop in lithium batteries, especially from unknown brands, as they have a current draw maximum. These batteries will likely have a lower warranty and will be more prone to failing. This is usually due to poor quality wiring and BMS within the battery itself.
For example, Fusion batteries (what we used in our Toyota Coaster) sit somewhere in the middle at 70amps, with lower quality ones usually being 50amps and higher end ones at 100amps or more. Combining two batteries doubles this limit, so you could have 140amp @12v, or 70amp @24v.
Combining them in parallel is not recommended by some manufacturers (worth confirming on a case-by-case basis) because if one battery fails while you have a high load, that load may then be placed on the remaining battery overloading it.
Lithium can also be done as a DIY battery bank, where you buy individual 3.6v cells, and a separate battery management system (BMS) to create a 12v or 24v battery bank.
This is the cheapest and highest performing option for lithium batteries but requires significantly more knowledge.
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| iTECH 120x 12v 120Ah Lithium Battery | – Lithium – 3 year warranty | Check Price | eBay |
| Enerdrive eLITE 12V 100Ah Lithium | – Lithium – 5 year warranty – Enerdrives Entry Level Battery | Check Price |
| Enerdrive ePOWER B-TEC Lithium | – Lithium – High charge and discharge current – 5 year warranty – Inbuilt Smart Phone monitoring – Available in 12v 125Ah, 200Ah and 300Ah capacities and 24v 100Ah | Check Price |
Inverters
Inverters are used to convert your 12/24v DC battery to 240V (Or 110V) to AC power. This allows you to run any electronics that don’t come in a DC option, such as air fryers, laptops, and coffee machines.
There are two types of inverters, ‘Modified Sine Wave’ and ‘Pure Sine Wave’. Both convert the straight line energy of DC current to the sine wave of AC current. Modified Sine Wave inverters are a cheaper alternative as they are less accurate and create a stepped square wave. The distorted sine wave can cause issues with a lot of electronic devices, such as over heating or frying the device.
Unless you are on a strict budget or know that it won’t cause issues with your appliances, we recommend getting a Pure Sine Wave inverter, so that you can be sure it won’t cause issues.
You now need to select what size inverter you are going to get. You may be tempted to go the biggest you can afford, but this is not the best option when choosing an inverter. The larger the inverter the less efficiency you will get. It is important to add up your total wattage of AC devices and select an appropriately size inverter while allowing for a comfortable overhead (Around 15-20%).
For example, if you have a 150w appliance you would want to get a 200w Pure Sine Wave Inverter.
Another limitation is the maximum discharge rate of your battery. As I mentioned in the Lithium section, our Fusion Lithium Batteries have a maximum discharge of 70a. This means with one battery we can have approximately a 800w inverter. Two batteries increase this to 1600w.
Other things to keep in mind for your bus or van electrical system is start up power. A lot of devices that ‘heat’ use more power initially to reach a high temperature for the element, then reduce power once that temperature is reached.
If you add all your devices together and find you need an inverter that your battery can’t handle the total power, consider if you will be using all the devices at once. We know that we are unable to run our Air Conditioner and Microwave at the same time off our batteries, so avoid this.
When comparing inverters and prices, consider their idle power draw. An expensive inverter like the Victron Phoenix 12/500va (400w) uses 3w when idle, compared to a Dometic SinePower 350W Inverter which uses 7.2w when idle. The phoenix also comes with Overload protection, battery Voltage too high/low protection and temperature protection.
In simple installations you can avoid an inverter and connect a 240v mains inlet direct to your power points. While this removes the need for the inverter it means you can only run 240v appliances when connected to mains power or to a generator. You can have a split of these options too. We had this setup for our Hot Water System, where all other power points were connected to our inverter, and our Hot Water could only be run on electricity when connected to mains power.
A registered electrician is required to certify any 240V installation in a motorhome, caravan or bus conversion. It is also illegal for someone who is not a qualified electrician to work on any 240V installs.
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| Projecta PW600 600w Inverter | – 600w power – Pure sine wave – Overload, overheat and low battery protection | Check Price |
| Enerdrive ePOWER 1000w Inverter | – 1000w power – Pure sine wave – 1 AC outlet and 1 USB outlet – Included remote on/off switch | Check Price |
| Enerdrive ePOWER 2000w Inverter | – 2000w power output – Pure sine wave – 2 AC outlet and 1 USB outlet – 12v/24v models from 400w to 2600w | Check Price (12v) Check Price (24v) |
| Victron Multiplus Inverter Charger | – Pure sine wave – Inbuilt AC charger – 12v/24v models from 1000VA to 5000VA | Check Price (12v) Check Price (24v) |
Battery Charging
Now that you have your battery and solar system, you can also decide if you want to add additional ways of charging to your system via either a AC-DC charger (charging from mains or a generator) or a DC-DC charger (Charging from your alternator/start batteries).
We recommend at least one or both of these options, as you aren’t able to guarantee sun no matter how much solar you have so it is always a good idea to have a backup for those weeks where the rain just won’t stop.
DC-DC Charger
As you drive your alternator supplies a large amount of electricity to your vehicles battery as well as powering the vehicles electronics. This alternator can also be used to charge your leisure batteries as you drive via a DC to DC charger or a battery isolator (VSR).
Battery Isolator (VSR) vs DC-DC Charger
A battery isolator basically pairs your vehicle battery and leisure battery together so that the alternator thinks it is charging one large battery. This is the simplest and most cost effective way to charge your leisure batteries from your alternator.
Once you turn your engine off, the VSR ‘isolates’ the two systems so you don’t drain your vehicle batteries while using your appliances.
Battery Isolators pass through the power, and don’t provide full multi-stage charging. This means it provides a relatively slow charge compared to what a dedicated charger can and slows even further the closer to 100% your batteries get. This is because the voltage coming from the alternator will be low compared to the charging voltage your battery wants.
Charging in this way can put stress on your alternator and lead to a shorter life. It is recommended to have a isolator switch (circuit breaker) to turn off the alternator charging when it isn’t required.
DC-DC chargers work essentially the same, but the key difference is that they take the incoming voltage and amperage of the alternator and regulate it to increase the voltage as required to fully charge your batteries. Selectable output currents allow you to lower the strain on your alternator.
DC-DC chargers come with different profiles suitable for different types of batteries to most effectively charge and protect each type. Ensure your desired charger has a suitable profile for your battery type.
When looking for a DC-DC charger it will generally list its output voltage (12v or 24v depending on your system) and maximum output current.
Some DC-DC chargers such as the Enerdrive 12V 40A DC2DC+ Battery Charger come with inbuilt MPPT solar chargers allowing you to charge from solar and the alternator with the same device. Make sure you check the specifications carefully to ensure it is suitable for your desired solar system.
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| REDARC 40A DC-DC Battery Charger | – DC-DC and MPPT charger in one – Lithium profile – 40 amp output | Check Price |
AC Charger
An AC charger (or Shore/Mains power) takes your typical household power (240v or 110v) and converts it to DC power to charge you batteries. Typically, you will use this when at a powered caravan site or running an extension lead from your household power point.
These are a good option if you plan to spend a lot of time in caravan parks or if you want that extra security to always have the option to quickly charge you batteries by spending a night at a caravan park or a friend’s driveway.
If you plan on spending most of your time in a caravan park, this may be the only source of charging that you require.
As with all chargers, if you are planning on charging a lithium battery bank, make sure the charge is suitable for lithium batteries.
When selecting an AC charger, they will be rated for the battery system (12v or 24v) as well as have a maximum output current. The more expensive, the higher the output current. A typical Caravan Park power outlet is 15amp at 240v (3,600w). This would be 300amp at 12v. Most chargers won’t come near that, with the higher end chargers reaching around 100amp @12v (Enerdrive 12V 100A Battery Charger 100amps or Victron MultiPlus-II 120amps). Most mainstream ones will be 25-60amps. This will usually be adjustable when connected to lower power inputs (EG a generator) and will depend on the maximum input rating of your batteries.
While most have these protection features it is worth confirming the one you are selecting has over charge, over temperature and short circuit protection.
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Generator
A generator can connect to the same mains power inlet that you would use when at a caravan park but would allow you to still be remote. This allows you to have all the same luxuries you may need to be plugged in to mains/shore power for, but still having the freedom to free camp.
Generators are a cost-effective way to charge/power your appliances without needing to invest in large solar setups or battery banks. They are also reliable. No need to worry about night or cloudy days (Although you should not use a generator in the rain unless it is protected).
Generators sound great, but there are a few negatives.
Generators are noisy. This is one of the main reasons people don’t like generators as the sound can become annoying. The noise a generator makes is something to consider when choosing one to purchase.
They consume fuel, which means you need to bring additional with you. It also means running a generator is less environmentally friendly then charging from solar. This also means you need to be cautious of where you position it and those around you.
Some campgrounds either do not allow generators, or have a time they must be off by, because of the noise pollution. So if this is your only source of power, you will need to keep this in consideration.
Inverter Charger Combo
An Inverter can be combined with an AC charger into the one device. This allows you to both charge your battery bank and provide power to your household appliances/power points without the need of two bulky pieces of equipment.
These can be an always on inverter, that will supply power to your power points whenever on; or can have an internal transfer switch where the inverter only works when connected to mains/shore power.
Some like our Victron Multiplus allow you to have two outputs, one that is always on and one that only comes on when connected to mains.
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Accessories
Battery Monitors
Battery monitors allow you to monitor your battery voltage, current, power, ampere-hours consumed and state of charge as well as the remaining time at the current rate of discharge. They consist of a shunt, which you connect your loads and battery to, as well as a remote display.
| Victron BMV-712 | – Bluetooth connectivity to monitor via phone app – 500amp shunt included | Check Price |
| Enerdrive ePRO Plus | – 500amp shunt included | Check Price |
| Simarine Battery Monitor | – Bluetooth connectivity to monitor via phone app – Colour screen with touch buttons – Monitor individual loads – Tank monitor | Check Price |
Victron Cerbo GX
The Victron Cerbo GX system is an all-in-one control and monitoring system for your Victron components (or a different compatible brand, EG Pylontech batteries). It can also be connected to resistance based tank monitors to give you a single view of electrical system and water tanks in one.
The Cerbo GX connects via VE.Direct, VE.Can, VE.Bus and BMS-Can interfaces, allowing you to instantly monitor the battery state of charge, power consumption, power harvest from PV, generator, and
mains, or check tank levels and temperature measurements. Easily control the shore power input current limit, (auto)start/stop generator(s) or change any setting to optimise the system. Follow up on alerts, perform diagnostic checks and resolve complications remotely.
| Victron Cerbo GX | Check Price |
| Victron GX Touch 50 | Check Price |
