Bus Conversion Guides

Electrical System Guide For Your Van or Bus Conversion

July 10, 2022 by Shane Patmore Leave a Comment

Table of Contents

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Designing your converted bus or van electrical system is perhaps one of the most challenging parts of the ‘design phase’. There is so many components and there is no one-size-fits-all approach. What works for us may be overkill for you. What works for someone else, may not meet your needs.

You also get what you put in. You can build a system for $1500 or $15000, and neither way is right or wrong. It all comes down to what you need and what you can budget for.

Below we have put together a comprehensive guide starting with some of the fundamentals, and going through each component, that aims to help you to build and plan out your own system.

If after reading through you are still unsure or want someone to cast another set of eyes over your design, any auto electrician should be able to help. There are also those that specialise in electrical systems for motorhome conversions such as Langshore Power or Zero Grid Australia.

Fundamentals of Electricity

Watts

A watt (W) is a unit of electrical power. It is the amount of energy an item needs to function and the rate at which energy is consumed. Watts are the main way to identify the power consumption of your devices.

The most important equation to remember when designing your electrical system is:

Watts = Volts x Amps

A common analogy to help with understanding this is to think of electricity running through a wire like water flowing through a pipe.

Voltage (V) = The pressure pushing the water through the pipes

Amps (A) = The width of the pipe or the ‘flow rate’

This would give you the total amount of water passing through (‘Watts’).

For example, a 1000w device connected to a 240V outlet will draw 4.16A. If it was connected to a 12V outlet, it would draw 83.33A.

Watt Hours and Amp Hours

Energy is measured in the amount of power used per hour. This is measured in Watt hours (Wh) or Amp hours (Ah).

A Watt hour is the consumption of watts per hour. Amp hour is the consumption of amps per hour.

Using our 1000w device again, running it for 1 hour will consume 1000Wh. If connected to a 12v battery it will consume 83.33Ah.

Deep Cycle batteries are typically rated in Amp hours. It is easier though to calculate your Watt hours due to device power consumption being given in Watts. Once you have calculated your Watt hours, you can then convert to Amp hours.

Once you know the consumption of Amp hours of your device, you can work out how much it will drain your battery.

Direct Current (DC) and Alternating Current (AC)

Direct Current

Direct Current (DC) is the flow of electricity in one direction. Batteries store power using direct current, which is why it is the main current used in vehicles, including motorhomes and caravans.

This means most appliances designed for caravans and motorhomes will use DC power. This will usually mean wiring direct to the appliance or plugging them into a cigarette lighter or USB.

For caravans and motorhomes this is typically 12V or 24V (more on this below).

Alternating Current

Alternating Current (AC) is a type of electricity that can flow in different directions. This is the power that runs through power lines and to the outlets in your home. The main reason AC became the standard for households was due to being more efficient to travel over greater distances. This means that household appliances are designed to plug into AC outlets. For Australia these outlets are 240V.

Due to batteries using DC power you will need to decide if you want to support 240V appliances or not. The first step would be looking at all the DC powered items available and see if there is anything that you can’t get, but need. These days there is typically a 12V/24V option for most appliances. The DC options are usually more energy efficient, however they are much more expensive.

If you decide that you need AC power in your bus conversion you will need an ‘inverter’. This takes the 12V/24V of your battery and converts it to AC power. An electrician can then run this to AC outlets or direct to the appliance depending on what is required.

In general, using an inverter results in about a 10% efficiency loss which should be taken into account when calculating battery and solar requirements.

Identifying Battery and Solar Requirements

You can use the solar system of your bus conversion to power as little as a 12V cooler and fan, to all the luxuries of home such as a large fridge, laptops, monitor, and a household split system air conditioner like us.

However, the more you want, the more you need to be prepared to spend big on your bus or van electrical system. Compromises need to be made, and if you find your system is larger than you were expecting, try looking for more efficient alternatives, or you might need to cut some unnecessary electronics.

Unfortunately, that air fryer you love so much might not be able to come with you.

Check out what was in our Toyota Coaster here.

12V or 24V DC System?

Most bus or van electrical systems will be 12V DC, although you can go 24V. There are more items available that run off 12V DC, however there are some advantages to going 24V such as, smaller wire required and less voltage drop for a length of wire. This is particularly relevant if you have a large inverter or a large solar array.

A common reason you might choose 24v is if you also want to charge off your starter battery. Battery combiners (more on this below) are 12V to 12V or 24V to 24V and are a cost effective way to charge from your starter battery. You will need to know the voltage of your starter batteries if this is something you want. For a Toyota Coaster, the starter battery is 24V and this is ultimately why we went with a 24V system. You can also save money on things like solar chargers as they do not need to be as powerful.

The good thing is that even if you do go 24V you can still use 12V appliances through a 24V to 12V converter. This can result in around a 20% efficiency loss and should be calculated in when identifying the power usage of your appliances.

Now that you know if you are going 12V or 24V, if you will have 240V AC appliances, and if you need a 12V converter, you can calculate your requirements.

Calculate your total power consumption

Device/Item	Watts		Hours		Watt Hours*
		x		=
		x		=
		x		=
		x		=
		x		=
		x		=

*Add 10% if running on AC for Inverter inefficiency. Add 20% if running on a DC to DC Converter

Calculate required battery size

Daily Watt Hours			Daily Amp Hours
	/12 (or 24)	=

AGM batteries deteriorate faster if you go below 50% capacity, where Lithium (LifePo4) can realistically drop to 80% or even 100%. Therefore if using AGM your battery capacity will need to be double the amp hours required.

Calculate Solar Panel Requirements

Daily Watt Hours		Daily sun hours (4 if unsure)		Solar Requirements
	/		=

This would be the minimum recommended solar power based off your power usage. If using a PWM charge controller you may need more due to less efficient charging when compared to a MPPT charge controller (more information on charge controllers below).

While these are good baselines there are many variables to factor that make it almost impossible to create a one size fits all approach. If most of your usage is at night, you will need a larger capacity battery to last until the sun rises again in the morning.

The unpredictability of weather is something that can’t be worked into an equation, so you need to be prepared. If you have large power requirements, you will want to look at alternate charging sources like charging while you’re driving or a mains power inlet.

Use these as a reference and it’s better to over prepare then under in our experience.

Choosing Parts For Your Bus or Van Electrical System

Solar Panels

Solar Panels (also known as ‘PV Panels/Array’) are made up of solar cells. These are made of layers of silicone, typically mounted under tempered glass with a rigid frame.

There is lots of different solar panels on the market, and some are more efficient than others.

There are a few key differences to keep in mind when choosing solar panels:

Rigid vs Flexible solar panels

Fixed vs Portable solar panels

Solar panel cell type: monocrystalline vs polycrystalline

Parallel vs Series

Rigid vs Flexible (Thin Film) solar panels

Rigid panels are the typical ones mentioned above, cells covered by tempered glass and mounted to a rigid frame. They are more durable and less expensive per watt.

Flexible solar panels use a much thinner cell allowing them to be flexible and able to bend up to 30 degrees. These have an advantage of being more lightweight and much easier to install. They will conform to the shape of your roof and can be installed just using silicone. They are more susceptible to scratches and other damage due to not having a layer of strong tempered glass.

A rigid panel should be mounted with a gap underneath to allow air to flow under the panel and help dissipate heat, allowing the panel to work at peak efficiency and not overheat. This is not possible on a flexible panel and can cause them to heat up and work less efficiently or even become damaged.

Fixed vs Portable solar panels

Fixed solar panels are permanently mounted to the roof of your vehicle. They are more convenient then portable panels once installed and take up less internal storage. Theft can be a problem for portable panels, especially if left unattended.

The advantage of portable panels are that you are able to position them in the sun. Solar panels do not work well in the shade, so when mounted to the roof you need to decide if you need shade from the heat or power.

Portable panels can get quite large when looking for a panel over 200w.

Often people will mount a few fixed panels to the roof and have the ability to connect an additional portable panel if required.

Monocrystalline vs Polycrystalline

The cells of Monocrystalline panels are made from a single crystal of silicone, which reduces the resistance on the electrons that flow through allowing for increased efficiency. This makes monocrystalline panels the premium option but at an added cost.

Polycrystalline panel cells are made from multiple crystals of silicone, making them less efficient but a cheaper option for the budget conscious.

Parallel vs Series

When installing your panels you will need to decide if you are installing them in parallel or series.

Wiring the panels in series combines the voltage of all panels. This is generally needed when the individual panels are the same voltage as your battery system. If you aren’t getting enough sun to output a high enough voltage your panels may not effectively charge your batteries.

Parallel has advantages in shadier conditions. When a panel in series is partially covered by shade, all panels drop their output to match the lowest. This does not occur in parallel, so if one panel is shaded, all other panels operate at normal capacity.

Parallel wiring requires fusing before the junction in case one shorts. Wiring becomes more complicated as you need thicker wire due to an increase in amps, which you also need to be mindful of the length of wire due to voltage drop.

Voltage can be affected by sun angle, coverage due to shading, as well as temperature, so make sure your voltage is high enough that you will not have issues charging your batteries. The input voltage needs to be approximately 5V higher than your batteries to allow charging.

Note: Anything over 120V will need a licensed electrician to install

We installed the panels on our Toyota Coaster in series as each panel had a similar voltage to our batteries, so we needed the higher voltage to effectively charge them. While the issue with shading is often listed as a major disadvantage to series wiring, we did not find the real world effects to be significant, and if there was serious shading we could just move the bus to fix the issue.

Remember: If the voltage of your panels is lower than the voltage of your batteries they won’t charge.

Recommended Products

Renogy 200w 12v Foldable Solar Panel	– Foldable Briefcase design – Included PWM controller – Supports Lithium	Check Price \| eBay
Korr 200w Solar Blanket	– Solar blanket – Included controller supports lithium	Check Price
Renogy 200w 12v Solar Panel	– Good value – Small size – Reputable brand	Check Price \| eBay
REC Alpha Solar Panel	– Large capacity – Monocrystalline – Extra frame support bars – Good value per watt	REC Alpha Pure (Purchasable through a solar dealer)

Charge Controllers

A charge controller takes the energy produced by your solar panels and uses it to charge your battery. They come in two types, MPPT (Maximum power point tracking) and PWM (Pulse Width Modulation).

A MPPT charger is nearly a must for a motor home these days. A MPPT charger can be considered a ‘smart charger’ compared to a PWM charger. A PWM charges at a voltage just above the battery voltage, where a MPPT charges at the panels maximum voltage. A MPPT charger can also adjust its voltage based on bulk, absorption and float, whereas a PWM controller must switch on and off to manage the power delivered.

PWM chargers are cheaper if price is absolutely critical, but the above makes a MPPT charger much more efficient and therefore the recommended choice for motor homes, caravans and bus conversions.

Lithium batteries require a special charging profile to get the maximum benefits and protect its lifespan. Ensure the controller you choose is compatible with Lithium (LifePo4) batteries. Most controllers will have selectable charge profiles for your battery chemistry (Gel, AGM or Flooded), but only some will include Lithium.

To properly size your charger, it will have two ratings, a maximum voltage and a maximum charge current (amps):
EG: The Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/50 Solar Controller can have a maximum input voltage of 100V and maximum charge current of 50amps

Once you know what panels you are getting and how you will be wiring them, you can work out the maximum voltage and charge current of your solar panels, then select an appropriately sized charger.

Recommended Products

Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/50	– Wide range of models for variety of input voltage and amps – Lithium profile – Remote control and monitor via Bluetooth – Top of the class solar brand	Check Price
Enerdrive DC2DC Battery Charger	– DC-DC and MPPT charger in one – Lithium profile – Reputable Australian brand	Check Price (12v) Check Price (24v)

Batteries

Batteries are an essential part of modern-day motorhomes. They allow you to store energy when you aren’t generating any to power devices. This allows you to continue to use your devices when you aren’t driving, aren’t plugged in, or don’t have any sunlight.

When choosing a deep cycle battery (Batteries used in motorhomes) the 3 main choices are:

Flooded/Wet Cell
AGM
Lithium (LifePo4)

Flooded/Wet Cell

Both Flooded/Wet Cell and AGM batteries are Lead Acid batteries. To avoid deteriorating the battery, they should not be regularly discharged/used below 50% of their total capacity. This is known as the ‘Depth of Discharge’. The less you discharge, the longer a battery will last.

This is important to keep in mind as going with Lead Acid will mean needing a bank that is twice the size of your required amp hours.

Flooded or Wet Cell batteries are the oldest type and the cheapest batteries available for your system. They require more maintenance than AGM or Lithium as they need liquid to operate, which needs to be monitored and topped up regularly.

They must be stored upright to prevent leaking and require ventilation as they release a toxic gas as they charge.

AGM

Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) batteries are the most common type of battery found in motorhomes. They can draw more power and charge at a higher rate than Wet Cell batteries, although can cost up to twice as much.

They do not require the maintenance and ventilation that Wet Cell batteries do, and they also don’t need to be completely upright. This makes them a more attractive option if price is not the number one determining factor. The main disadvantage is weight and a lower lifespan which means they need to be replaced every few years.

Lithium

Lithium Ion (LifePo4) are relatively new to the market of batteries used in motorhomes. They have many advantages over Lead Acid batteries. They are significantly lighter, have better discharge limits, more efficient charging, and have a longer life.

This all comes at a price, with lithium batteries costing 2-4 times more than similar sized AGM batteries.

Even though they are more expensive, lithium batteries can be discharged to 80% of the capacity without significantly shortening their life. They can also last up to 10 years, meaning they need to be replaced a lot less then AGM batteries. So it is not fair to compare them directly to AGM batteries.

Lithium batteries come as a ‘drop-in’ battery like AGM and Wet Cell batteries. These allow you to connect straight to your chargers and loads and you’re good to go. We recommend a drop-in lithium battery for most systems where you can afford the outright cost.

Care must be taken with drop in lithium batteries, especially from unknown brands, as they have a current draw maximum. These batteries will likely have a lower warranty and will be more prone to failing. This is usually due to poor quality wiring and BMS within the battery itself.

For example, Fusion batteries (what we used in our Toyota Coaster) sit somewhere in the middle at 70amps, with lower quality ones usually being 50amps and higher end ones at 100amps or more. Combining two batteries doubles this limit, so you could have 140amp @12v, or 70amp @24v.

Combining them in parallel is not recommended by some manufacturers (worth confirming on a case-by-case basis) because if one battery fails while you have a high load, that load may then be placed on the remaining battery overloading it.

Lithium can also be done as a DIY battery bank, where you buy individual 3.6v cells, and a separate battery management system (BMS) to create a 12v or 24v battery bank.

This is the cheapest and highest performing option for lithium batteries but requires significantly more knowledge.

Recommended Products

Power AGM 12V 220Ah Battery	– AGM – 2 year warranty – Avaliable in 85Ah, 110Ah, 135Ah, 220Ah and 270Ah	Check Price
iTECH 120x 12v 120Ah Lithium Battery	– Lithium – 3 year warranty	Check Price \| eBay
Enerdrive eLITE 12V 100Ah Lithium	– Lithium – 5 year warranty – Enerdrives Entry Level Battery	Check Price
Enerdrive ePOWER B-TEC Lithium	– Lithium – High charge and discharge current – 5 year warranty – Inbuilt Smart Phone monitoring – Available in 12v 125Ah, 200Ah and 300Ah capacities and 24v 100Ah	Check Price

Inverters

Inverters are used to convert your 12/24v DC battery to 240V (Or 110V) to AC power. This allows you to run any electronics that don’t come in a DC option, such as air fryers, laptops, and coffee machines.

There are two types of inverters, ‘Modified Sine Wave’ and ‘Pure Sine Wave’. Both convert the straight line energy of DC current to the sine wave of AC current. Modified Sine Wave inverters are a cheaper alternative as they are less accurate and create a stepped square wave. The distorted sine wave can cause issues with a lot of electronic devices, such as over heating or frying the device.

Unless you are on a strict budget or know that it won’t cause issues with your appliances, we recommend getting a Pure Sine Wave inverter, so that you can be sure it won’t cause issues.

You now need to select what size inverter you are going to get. You may be tempted to go the biggest you can afford, but this is not the best option when choosing an inverter. The larger the inverter the less efficiency you will get. It is important to add up your total wattage of AC devices and select an appropriately size inverter while allowing for a comfortable overhead (Around 15-20%).

For example, if you have a 150w appliance you would want to get a 200w Pure Sine Wave Inverter.

Another limitation is the maximum discharge rate of your battery. As I mentioned in the Lithium section, our Fusion Lithium Batteries have a maximum discharge of 70a. This means with one battery we can have approximately a 800w inverter. Two batteries increase this to 1600w.

Other things to keep in mind for your bus or van electrical system is start up power. A lot of devices that ‘heat’ use more power initially to reach a high temperature for the element, then reduce power once that temperature is reached.

If you add all your devices together and find you need an inverter that your battery can’t handle the total power, consider if you will be using all the devices at once. We know that we are unable to run our Air Conditioner and Microwave at the same time off our batteries, so avoid this.

When comparing inverters and prices, consider their idle power draw. An expensive inverter like the Victron Phoenix 12/500va (400w) uses 3w when idle, compared to a Dometic SinePower 350W Inverter which uses 7.2w when idle. The phoenix also comes with Overload protection, battery Voltage too high/low protection and temperature protection.

In simple installations you can avoid an inverter and connect a 240v mains inlet direct to your power points. While this removes the need for the inverter it means you can only run 240v appliances when connected to mains power or to a generator. You can have a split of these options too. We had this setup for our Hot Water System, where all other power points were connected to our inverter, and our Hot Water could only be run on electricity when connected to mains power.

A registered electrician is required to certify any 240V installation in a motorhome, caravan or bus conversion. It is also illegal for someone who is not a qualified electrician to work on any 240V installs.

Recommended Products

Projecta PW600 600w Inverter	– 600w power – Pure sine wave – Overload, overheat and low battery protection	Check Price
Enerdrive ePOWER 1000w Inverter	– 1000w power – Pure sine wave – 1 AC outlet and 1 USB outlet – Included remote on/off switch	Check Price
Enerdrive ePOWER 2000w Inverter	– 2000w power output – Pure sine wave – 2 AC outlet and 1 USB outlet – 12v/24v models from 400w to 2600w	Check Price (12v) Check Price (24v)
Victron Multiplus Inverter Charger	– Pure sine wave – Inbuilt AC charger – 12v/24v models from 1000VA to 5000VA	Check Price (12v) Check Price (24v)

Battery Charging

Now that you have your battery and solar system, you can also decide if you want to add additional ways of charging to your system via either a AC-DC charger (charging from mains or a generator) or a DC-DC charger (Charging from your alternator/start batteries).

We recommend at least one or both of these options, as you aren’t able to guarantee sun no matter how much solar you have so it is always a good idea to have a backup for those weeks where the rain just won’t stop.

DC-DC Charger

As you drive your alternator supplies a large amount of electricity to your vehicles battery as well as powering the vehicles electronics. This alternator can also be used to charge your leisure batteries as you drive via a DC to DC charger or a battery isolator (VSR).

Battery Isolator (VSR) vs DC-DC Charger

A battery isolator basically pairs your vehicle battery and leisure battery together so that the alternator thinks it is charging one large battery. This is the simplest and most cost effective way to charge your leisure batteries from your alternator.

Once you turn your engine off, the VSR ‘isolates’ the two systems so you don’t drain your vehicle batteries while using your appliances.

Battery Isolators pass through the power, and don’t provide full multi-stage charging. This means it provides a relatively slow charge compared to what a dedicated charger can and slows even further the closer to 100% your batteries get. This is because the voltage coming from the alternator will be low compared to the charging voltage your battery wants.

Charging in this way can put stress on your alternator and lead to a shorter life. It is recommended to have a isolator switch (circuit breaker) to turn off the alternator charging when it isn’t required.

DC-DC chargers work essentially the same, but the key difference is that they take the incoming voltage and amperage of the alternator and regulate it to increase the voltage as required to fully charge your batteries. Selectable output currents allow you to lower the strain on your alternator.

DC-DC chargers come with different profiles suitable for different types of batteries to most effectively charge and protect each type. Ensure your desired charger has a suitable profile for your battery type.

When looking for a DC-DC charger it will generally list its output voltage (12v or 24v depending on your system) and maximum output current.

Some DC-DC chargers such as the Enerdrive 12V 40A DC2DC+ Battery Charger come with inbuilt MPPT solar chargers allowing you to charge from solar and the alternator with the same device. Make sure you check the specifications carefully to ensure it is suitable for your desired solar system.

Recommended Products

Enerdrive 12/24V 140A Dual VSR Relay	– No voltage loss – Intelligent battery monitoring to prevent unwanted switching	Check Price
Enerdrive DC2DC Battery Charger	– DC-DC and MPPT charger in one – Lithium profile – 40 amp output	Check Price
REDARC 40A DC-DC Battery Charger	– DC-DC and MPPT charger in one – Lithium profile – 40 amp output	Check Price

AC Charger

An AC charger (or Shore/Mains power) takes your typical household power (240v or 110v) and converts it to DC power to charge you batteries. Typically, you will use this when at a powered caravan site or running an extension lead from your household power point.

These are a good option if you plan to spend a lot of time in caravan parks or if you want that extra security to always have the option to quickly charge you batteries by spending a night at a caravan park or a friend’s driveway.

If you plan on spending most of your time in a caravan park, this may be the only source of charging that you require.

As with all chargers, if you are planning on charging a lithium battery bank, make sure the charge is suitable for lithium batteries.

When selecting an AC charger, they will be rated for the battery system (12v or 24v) as well as have a maximum output current. The more expensive, the higher the output current. A typical Caravan Park power outlet is 15amp at 240v (3,600w). This would be 300amp at 12v. Most chargers won’t come near that, with the higher end chargers reaching around 100amp @12v (Enerdrive 12V 100A Battery Charger 100amps or Victron MultiPlus-II 120amps). Most mainstream ones will be 25-60amps. This will usually be adjustable when connected to lower power inputs (EG a generator) and will depend on the maximum input rating of your batteries.

While most have these protection features it is worth confirming the one you are selecting has over charge, over temperature and short circuit protection.

Recommended Products

Victron Blue Smart Charger	– Lithium profile – Remote control and monitor via Bluetooth – Highly efficient so less heat generated – Models 12V 15/20/30A, 24V 8/12/16A	Check Price
Enerdrive ePOWER Smart Charger	– Lithium profile – Models available: 12Volt: 20amp, 40amp, 60amp, 120amp 24Volt: 30amp, 60amp	Check Price

Generator

A generator can connect to the same mains power inlet that you would use when at a caravan park but would allow you to still be remote. This allows you to have all the same luxuries you may need to be plugged in to mains/shore power for, but still having the freedom to free camp.

Generators are a cost-effective way to charge/power your appliances without needing to invest in large solar setups or battery banks. They are also reliable. No need to worry about night or cloudy days (Although you should not use a generator in the rain unless it is protected).

Generators sound great, but there are a few negatives.

Generators are noisy. This is one of the main reasons people don’t like generators as the sound can become annoying. The noise a generator makes is something to consider when choosing one to purchase.

They consume fuel, which means you need to bring additional with you. It also means running a generator is less environmentally friendly then charging from solar. This also means you need to be cautious of where you position it and those around you.

Some campgrounds either do not allow generators, or have a time they must be off by, because of the noise pollution. So if this is your only source of power, you will need to keep this in consideration.

Inverter Charger Combo

An Inverter can be combined with an AC charger into the one device. This allows you to both charge your battery bank and provide power to your household appliances/power points without the need of two bulky pieces of equipment.

These can be an always on inverter, that will supply power to your power points whenever on; or can have an internal transfer switch where the inverter only works when connected to mains/shore power.

Some like our Victron Multiplus allow you to have two outputs, one that is always on and one that only comes on when connected to mains.

Recommended Products

Victron Multiplus Inverter Charger

– Pure sine wave inverter
– 12v/24v models from 1000VA to 5000VA
– Remote control and monitoring when coupled with a Victron GX device

Check Price (12v)
Check Price (24v)

Accessories

Battery Monitors

Battery monitors allow you to monitor your battery voltage, current, power, ampere-hours consumed and state of charge as well as the remaining time at the current rate of discharge. They consist of a shunt, which you connect your loads and battery to, as well as a remote display.

Victron BMV-712	– Bluetooth connectivity to monitor via phone app – 500amp shunt included	Check Price
Enerdrive ePRO Plus	– 500amp shunt included	Check Price
Simarine Battery Monitor	– Bluetooth connectivity to monitor via phone app – Colour screen with touch buttons – Monitor individual loads – Tank monitor	Check Price

Victron Cerbo GX

The Victron Cerbo GX system is an all-in-one control and monitoring system for your Victron components (or a different compatible brand, EG Pylontech batteries). It can also be connected to resistance based tank monitors to give you a single view of electrical system and water tanks in one.

The Cerbo GX connects via VE.Direct, VE.Can, VE.Bus and BMS-Can interfaces, allowing you to instantly monitor the battery state of charge, power consumption, power harvest from PV, generator, and
mains, or check tank levels and temperature measurements. Easily control the shore power input current limit, (auto)start/stop generator(s) or change any setting to optimise the system. Follow up on alerts, perform diagnostic checks and resolve complications remotely.

Victron Cerbo GX	Check Price
Victron GX Touch 50	Check Price

Our New Bus Conversion and Tips On How To Get It Right The First Time

February 4, 2021 by Claire Edwards Leave a Comment

We’ve done it again! We have sold our much loved Toyota Coaster, and decided to do a new bus conversion on our Mercedes Vario. You may thinking why? Well after living in it full time for almost 18 months, there were a few things we decided really didn’t work for us. Rather than trying to fix them, we decided to sell up, and start again! Read below to see what kind of bus we bought and why, what we will be doing differently, and bus conversion tips to help you get it right the first time.

The New Bus

Our new bus is a 1997 Mercedes Vario. It is a 4.2 litre, 4 cyclinder turbo diesel automatic.

It is approximately 7.8 metres long, with an internal height of 1.9 metres and a width of 2.1 metres at the floor, and even wider at the windows.

So not only is it longer, but taller and wider than the Coaster. This will allow Shane to stand up freely, and for us to have a much wider hallway. We never imagined how much extra space that little bit of length and width would give us. Oh and its automatic – Shane can finally drive it! And maybe even one day get his licence 😉

roaming on rubber - bus conversion tips - mercedes vario

So why did we decide to sell our Toyota Coaster and get a Mercedes Vario?

Office space –

The first and foremost reason we decided to do a new bus conversion was because of the office space. Both Shane and I are constantly using our laptops for this blog, our YouTube series, and study. Shane has also continued to work remotely 3 days per week as an IT Technician. In the planning of our Toyota Coaster bus, the office space was an afterthought. We had a fold up dining table which Shane would use, but no space for an office chair. The solution was a boat chair mounted to our lounge for Shane, and I ended up doing everything whilst sitting on the lounge. This was not convenient, or comfortable! Not planning this was a poor decision, and the office space should have been at the forefront of our minds considering how much we require it.

We could have remodelled the Toyota Coaster to fit a better office space in however, after thinking long and hard we decided that to do that we would be compromising too much on our lounge and dining areas. We felt as though a slightly bigger bus with a better layout would be better.

In our new Mercedes Vario, a larger, more comfortable office space has been in the plans from the very beginning. We are going to ensure there is a large enough desk for both of us, as well as having comfortable office chairs. The plan is to find office chairs that can be used throughout the day, and stored underneath the desk when not in use.

Thin hallway –

When we were building our Toyota Coaster, we were trying to think about the layout as much as possible. We tried to build it in a way that made sense – starting from the back; bedroom, closet, bathroom, kitchen, with living area at the front. What this meant though was the two largest things (the bathroom and fridge) were almost opposite each other.

This caused a very small entrance to the hallway and made it feel quite claustrophobic.

Not only did it feel very tight, but it meant that we had two very large walls right near the entrance of our home. This closed the entire bus off.

roaming on rubber - bus conversion tips - Toyota Coaster

The idea for the new bus is to have the larger things (fridge and bathroom) on the same side. Whilst this is not as appealing as having the fridge on the same side as the kitchen, we believe the benefits of space will overcome this.

We have also arranged for any internal walls to be as close to the rear of the bus as possible. By doing this, we hope the bus will feel a lot more open and not so claustrophobic!

In all honesty, these were the two main things that we wanted different that were enough for us to build a new bus. Even though these were the primary things, there were other things we have decided to change in the new bus.

Things we want to do differently

Dinette –

In our Toyota Coaster, we had a small drop down table that was used as a dining table/office area. Whilst it was handy to use as a table, it was not in a convenient location that could be used to actually eat at. The plan for the new bus is to have a removable table top and leg that will be stored in the lounge. It can come out when necessary and be used along with the lounge to eat at. We will also have captains swivel chairs in this bus as the driver and passenger chairs. The same removable table top and leg will have a position in between the swivel chairs for a more formal dinette area.

Lounge –

Our previous lounge had all the bells and whistles; slide out to make a single bed, lift up for storage, and lift up foot rest. The problem was it had so much going on, that it was too much! It ended up being difficult to use, hard to access the storage, and we gave up on the foot rest idea. We had custom cut foam, and had covers made up to fit. It was very expensive, and after a long time sitting on it, it became uncomfortable.

The new bus will be much more simple. It will just be a lounge with storage. It will house our hot water system, cat litter, and our fold down table. We will have 2 small collapsible ottomans, so they can be put down and stored when not in use.

The lounge cushions will be thicker on the base, and we will have large softer cushions for the back.

Kitchen –

Kick panel. Omg we need a kick panel! In our Toyota Coaster, the idea of a kick panel seemed like wasted space. However, after opening the cupboards endlessly on our toes, we can definitely see the need for a kick panel! And now realise why it is called a ‘kick panel’…

Even though it takes up space, we have plans to have our air conditioner come up from under the bus into the kick panel area, at least then it is hidden from the inside. So still useable space!

All of our cupboards will have either drawers, or slide out storage; making everything much easier to access.

We have decided to buy a flatpack Kaboodle kitchen from Bunnings this time rather than build it ourselves. Whilst it is heavier, it will save us a lot of time, effort and surprisingly money to do it this way.

Our bus conversion tips; how do you get it right the first time?

Consider your bus size, plan and priorities –

Before even buying your bus, draw up some plans and work out how much space you will need, and what you want to have in your bus.

You might find that if you will be living in your bus full time, your needs may be different than if you are just using it for travel. For example, you may want a full toilet, shower and kitchen. Consider whether you will be staying in remote places and need to be off grid, or will primarily be staying in caravan parks. This will determine if you need a generator/solar, batteries and onboard water storage.

If you will be working in your bus, or like to do a lot of things online, do not underestimated your office space! Prioritise it. Comfortable seating and a good work area is a must.

What are your hobbies, or interests? Make sure you have the room to store things if you need to, or plan your design around them. Don’t leave anything to the last minute like we did.

We have a helpful planning guide here if you want to have a read in more detail 🙂

Photo of drawn up plan for our Toyota Coaster bus conversion. Roaming on rubber- things you should know before doing a bus conversion

Don’t overcomplicate things!

One of our biggest bus conversion tips is don’t overcomplicate things! It may sound simple, but when you have limited space you may find you are trying to squeeze as much in as possible. Sometimes this just makes it too hard, takes too long, costs too much and doesn’t always work out. The saying “keep it simple” really is relevant here.

We have spoken to other people who have done their own bus conversions, and most agree that generally when something is too complicated, it ends up not being used.

Learn tips from others –

If you have an idea, you can pretty much guarantee someone else out there has had it too! There are so many great forums, blogs and pages like this that have tonnes of bus conversion tips, information and ideas. And like us, not all of them have worked and we all learn from each other.

Don’t be afraid to message people directly and ask their opinion, ideas, or what they would have done differently. Most people love to share their knowledge in the hopes it will help someone.

Also, check out our in depth guide “Things you should know before starting a bus conversion“. We discuss budget, time to build, planning, buying a bus, licenses and more!

So now that we have sold our Toyota Coaster, we are well on our way to completing our Mercedes Vario. It has been a big change, but so far are glad we have done it. We hope that these bus conversion tips have helped you to get it right the first time, and avoid having to do a whole new build like us. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to send them through 🙂

Things You Should Know Before Starting A Bus Conversion

January 21, 2021 by Claire Edwards 3 Comments

When we started building our Toyota Coaster, we were completely new to the idea of building our own tiny home. There was so much we didn’t know, and so much we had to learn. Our motto was always “wing it”, or “let’s just see how it goes”. We are now on our second bus build; our Mercedes Vario. We have learnt so much in the process, and so far it has made this bus build go a lot smoother. That’s why we thought it was finally time to share with you the things we wish we had known before starting a bus conversion.

Roaming on rubber- things you should know before doing a bus conversion

The Emotional Rollercoaster –

The first and foremost thing we need to talk is the emotional rollercoaster of a ride your bus conversion will take you on. Everyone knows about budget, and time, and we will talk about those things too, but not everyone tells you about the journey of emotions that goes along with it.

When you start your bus conversion, you might think you know someone. It could be yourself, a partner, family member or friend. You know how they work, what causes them stress and how they handle certain situations. Well, this build will test everything you thought you knew!

There will be breakdowns and many different levels of stress. The bus conversion will occupy every second of your thoughts. We would spend hours looking at inspiration on how we can achieve a design or look we want, only to then spend hours more lying in bed unable to sleep thinking about the same thing. Sometimes you will want to give up, but other times completing a job no matter how small will give you the motivation to keep on going.

If you are building with someone it will test your relationship. There will be arguments and conflict, disagreements and differences in opinion. You will be trying to explain something and there will be trouble understanding. Both of you will have different ways of wanting to do the same thing. You won’t agree on the plan, or the design of everything.

This all sounds horrible, and you are probably thinking ‘why would I start with this?’, and ‘is it even worth it?’ Well the answer is yes! It absolutely is! Even though this is a huge undertaking, it is all part of the journey.

As much as there a lows, there a highs as well. After each completed task there is a sense of pride, along with the joy that comes from seeing it take shape.

From our experience, we have learnt that sometimes we just need to step completely away. Take a day to remind ourselves why we wanted to do this in the first place. If we don’t agree, we can work on something different or each come up with a new idea that the other may agree with. There is always ways to overcome this.

In the end, when it’s completed, you won’t look back and think of the stress, or all the arguments, you will stand there and look at what you have created with a smile on your face. It may not be perfect but it is yours, and you did this.

Roaming on Rubber - Free camping tips Australia -Esperance

Budget –

The main question we get asked is ‘how much does it cost to do a bus conversion?’

This is probably the hardest question to answer, and when starting your bus conversion, you may have no idea. There are so many different factors which can result in huge price differences. Some people think it is cheaper to do their own conversion, and others to buy one already done and remodel to their liking. Whilst it can be cheaper starting from scratch, it can also end up more expensive, take longer, and is definitely a lot more work! But when you are getting exactly what you want, does that make it worth it?

So, what costs the most money?

A couple of questions on what you want will start to determine your costs –

Do you want to be able to live off grid? How long for?
Do you want a shower and toilet?
Will you want a kitchen inside, or are you happy with outdoor cooking facilities?
What about hot water?

If you answered yes to any of those questions, already your costs are going to start creeping up.

So having a clear idea for your budget is a necessity. It might mean you need to look at second hand items, or compromising on some of the initial things you had planned.

Not only is there the expense of buying all of the items and appliances you want, but there could be service costs. For example, if you are having gas or 240v electricity, you will need a gas plumber and an electrician. Or if you are starting from scratch, you will need to pay an engineer to certify the bus into a motorhome. There could also be diesel heater installers, air conditioner installers, solar installers, mechanics, panel beaters, glaziers, automotive tinters, and so much more! Not to mention registration costs after all that…

For our original Toyota Coaster, we had a budget of $40,000. This was to buy our Coaster, and fit it out.

Our bus cost $21,000. After buying this and adding up what we wanted for our electrical system, kitchen and bathroom, we quickly realised the costs were going to blow out. Eventually the end figure was closer to $60-$65,000.

However, we did purchase everything new, had no tools to start off with, and bought almost the top of the range of everything at the time. So we literally were starting from scratch!

Our biggest tip when starting your bus conversion is not to forget about the small stuff. It adds up! For our new Mercedes Vario build, so far we have spent almost $300 just on screws, bolts, and silicone alone! Not to mention we used any of the previous stuff we had left from the Coaster…

Time to build the bus and time of year –

Something to consider when you are looking to convert a bus into a motorhome is how long it will take to do.

If you have experience in building, have the funds on hand, and have the time than building a bus may only take you a few short months.

If, however, you are like us, with no experience and are still working, then the reality is it could take a lot longer. We had anticipated for our Toyota Coaster to take around 6 months. With work and life commitments, it ended up taking us 13 months to complete.

So it is definitely a good idea to be realistic with your timeframe. Keep in mind things like work, family commitments and holidays. Have a general goal and regular targets to keep your plan in line.

Trades like gas plumbers and electricians can also have long lead times. For our Mercedes Vario, we learnt to book well in advance. If you aren’t ready you can always reschedule as you get closer, but at least you are booked in just in case.

Another very important thing to consider is the weather. When building our Toyota Coaster, we did the majority of work in the Summer. Each day was well over 40 degrees Celsius and it slowed us down tremendously. When working outdoors in the heat (and also when its freezing in Winter!) it can be very difficult. Not only more physical exertion, but jobs like silicone and painting are not achievable.

In saying that, when working outside, the rain also affects what can be done too; roof hatches, and holes in the bus become no longer possible.

So that leads us into our next thing to keep in mind…

Where will you build the bus?

This is extremely important! Converting a bus into a motorhome takes space. It is a good idea to plan where you will build prior to purchasing a bus. If you own or rent your property and have a large enough yard with a good storage shed or similar then you are set.

If like us, you do not and have nowhere to park a bus while you work on it, then you may need to look at other alternatives; family members, friends, rentals, or storage facilities. Try and think of things like electricity, water and shelter, and anything else that you may require.

Our Toyota Coaster was located 45 minutes away from where we lived. This meant that it was hard to do a few hours after work. We could only really work on it in full day blocks.

If you are lucky enough and can park it inside a large shed or undercover area, then the weather will not affect your build as much.

Another thing to keep in mind is that if you need to rent a property, or move elsewhere, then try and make sure you have close access to a decent hardware shop! Sometimes we ended up at Bunnings 3 or 4 times a day! Our current Mercedes Vario is located around an hour from a Bunnings, so we have to plan very carefully and make our trips worthwhile. This can be difficult as not everything always goes to plan.

Buying the bus itself, and what to look for –

Now we are definitely not mechanics, so if you have a trusted mechanic friend, best to take them with you! But there is a general list of things to look for when buying a second hand bus or motorhome.

Shape of the bus – A bus with curved walls makes building hard! Our Toyota Coaster walls were curved and everything seemed more difficult. One of the reasons we opted for a Mercedes Vario the second time round was the walls have much less curve to them!

Water damage/leaks – Check the bus floor/walls for water damage. If you see anywhere that may look like there is water damage this could be an indication of a leak. Leaks, depending where they are could be an easy fix. Replacing the entire floor due to water damage however is not, and can be costly!

Rust – This may sound like a small thing, but rust is kind of like the tip of an iceberg; you may only be able to see a small bit on the surface, but there could be a whole heap underneath!

Surface rust is to be expected, especially on older vehicles, and with some sanding, and repair work can be fixed. When looking for rust, you want to be looking around things like the chassis, and the windows, or anywhere that could indicate a much larger or structural problem.

Transmission – Something small, but do you want a manual or automatic. Will it bother you driving either large distances?

Tyres – Check the tyres for acceptable tread, or any indication of uneven wear. Also have a look at the wheels/rims for any cracks or damage. Replacing 6 bus tyres isn’t cheap.

Chassis – As mentioned above, it is a good idea to check this for rust. This is the bones of the vehicle and you want it to be in good order. Also check to make sure there are no cracks, bends or repairs, to ensure no damage has been done.

Engine/leaks – Check the engine and see if there are any leaks or faults. When you take the vehicle for a test drive, return it and park in a different spot. This gives you the chance to look at the ground underneath where it was parked, to see if there is any oil or anything left behind.

Age of the bus and history – Always good to know the history of a vehicle and whether things like services and repairs have been up to date. Online checks can be done for a fee which will tell you if a vehicle has been written off/repaired.

Knowing what the bus was used for will give you a good indication of if it has had a hard life.

Again though, we are not mechanics, and this is very general information. It is best if you can have someone review the vehicle or go with you. Mechanics can be booked and charge a fee to perform a pre-purchase inspection.

Licence types –

One thing which may not even cross your mind when buying a bus to convert is what sort of licence is required.

C (Car): Vehicles up to 4.5 tonne Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM). Vehicles that seat up to 12 adults, including the driver.

LR (Light Rigid): Rigid vehicles with a GVM of more than 4.5 tonnes, but not more than 8 tonnes. Any towed trailer must not weigh more than 9 tonnes. Vehicles can carry more than 12 adults, including the driver.

MR (Medium Rigid): Rigid vehicles over 8 tonne GVM, but no more than 2 axles. Any towed trailer must not weigh more than 9 tonnes. Vehicles can carry more than 12 adults, including the driver.

HR (Heavy Rigid): Rigid vehicles over 8 tonne GVM, and 3 axles or more. Any towed trailer must not weigh more than 9 tonnes.

It is highly unlikely that you will require a licence other than those listed above. It ultimately depends on the weight, axles and towing capacity of your vehicle.

To give you an example, our Toyota Coaster had a GVM of 4.99 tonne, which falls into the LR licence category. This meant that Claire had to upgrade her licence in order to drive the vehicle; in turn costing more money.

Our new Mercedes Vario has a GVM of 8.2 tonne. This falls into a MR category licence – once again Claire had to upgrade further.

There are courses available for this, and typically cost upwards of $1000.

Just something to keep in mind is that the bigger and heavier you go, you may be required to upgrade your licence.

Roaming on rubber- things you should know before doing a bus conversion - claire driver training nsw

The design of the bus –

Before you go buying a bus and starting your bus conversion, it is a good idea to have an idea of a design or layout. If you have a general idea, then you will know what kind of bus and what size to look for.

There are a few factors which you should consider when designing your bus.

If you are going to be living in it full time, you should consider things such as a shower/toilet, full fridge, cooking facilities and storage. Whereas if you are going to be living in it part time, these things may not be as high a priority.
What are the seating requirements, and how many do you need to sleep.
Do you want to be able to live off grid? This means not requiring access to water or electricity and having your own onboard.
What is important to you? Living spaces, desk areas, entertaining space etc.

Once you have a general layout planned, you can work out what size bus might meet your requirements and this will narrow down the options available for you. Because we planned ahead we knew when changing from our Toyota Coaster to our Mercedes Vario that we would need a bus that was around 8m in length and at least 2m wide (It helps when you have done one before). This allowed us to narrow our search to a specific few vehicles.

Are you going to start your bus conversion from scratch, or buy one already done and remodel?

There are pros and cons for both buying a bus and starting from scratch, or buying one that has already been converted.

If you buy a bus from scratch, they are typically cheaper than one already classed as a motorhome.

You then get to design it yourself and have everything as you want it. However, depending on your design, by the end of the build, it may end up costing a lot more than buying one already converted to a motorhome.

By building it yourself, you will know exactly what has been done to it, so if there are any problems, or any questions, you will have the answers the majority of the time or know where to look.

However, buying a bus and converting it from nothing is hard work. Do you have, or are you willing to learn the skills required? For example there is generally wood working, welding, plumbing, flooring and more.

Do you have the money? Even though the vehicle itself may be cheaper, turning it into a motorhome can be expensive. Having a budget, and expectations of things that could go wrong here is a must.

Do you have the time? If you are on a time limit, it may be much more beneficial to buy a bus already converted to a motorhome. If you can find one close enough to the design you are looking for, it could save you a lot of time and money if you only need to make minor adjustments, you just might not be getting exactly what you want.

Buying an already converted bus will still give you the luxury and convenience of buying a motorhome, but typically at a much cheaper price.

It’s a good idea to review all options to decide what is going to best match your budget, and any other restrictions.

Our final thing you should know is to enjoy it!

Converting a bus into a motorhome is hard! It is such an emotional journey. It is tiring, overwhelming, and will physically and mentally exhaust you. But it is also a fantastic time in life. If you do get the opportunity to do something like this, appreciate it, learn new skills, and take pride in what you accomplish.

You will watch so many Youtube videos, read blogs like this, join Facegroup groups and chat to other like-minded people. There are so many people these days who are looking for alternative lifestyles that this idea of bus conversions is booming.

When it gets hard, and it will get hard, just remember this, it might help to keep the motivation going!

Good luck ?

Shane and Claire removing the vinyl flooring in our Toyota Coaster bus conversion. Roaming on rubber- things you should know before doing a bus conversion

How to change a bus into a motorhome and register it in NSW

September 29, 2020 by Claire Edwards 6 Comments

Note; Please contact Service NSW, or an engineer for specific information, this is a guide only on turning a bus into a motorhome.

We have a lot of people asking us how to change a bus into a motorhome, and the registration process. It seems to be one of those grey areas where there isn’t a lot of readily available information. Starting from scratch with a bus can be daunting, and not knowing where to start, or what to include in your conversion can be costly if not done right. So we thought it was time for a post to help anyone looking to convert a bus to a motorhome, and then to register it.

This post will focus on converting a bus to a motorhome from scratch. There are a lot of variations though, and we will try and answer some of these towards the end of the post.

So, you’ve gone and bought a bus (Yay!), and now want to change it to a motorhome and have no idea where to start. The first thing we recommend is to get familiar with the requirements of a motorhome.

So, what are the minimum requirements for a motorhome in NSW?

Seats and a table
Sleeping areas
Cooking facilities
And storage areas

And, what are the basic steps I need to do to get it registered?

This is a quick guide for what steps you need to take with a more in depth breakdown below. This is based on an unregistered bus with variations to this at the end of the post.

Contact your engineer to confirm your requirements for a motorhome, and anything specific your engineer of choice may want done.
Plan and complete your fit out. Make sure you meet all NSW requirements (below).
Take your bus to a weigh bridge for certificate.
Take your bus to the engineer so they can check all requirements and compliance is met. They will put a compliance plate on once complete.
Finally its time to take your bus for a safety inspection at an Authorised Safety Inspection Station (blue slip for vehicles under 4.5 tonne, or brown slip if over 4.5 tonne).
Purchase Compulsory Third Party insurance (green slip).
Attend Service NSW with all paperwork, proof of ownership, and any number plates on the vehicle. Fill out an Application for Registration, purchase new number plates, and register vehicle.

Done!

Please note, even though your bus is unregistered, you are allowed to drive it for the purpose of registration to the closest available inspection station . If you are not going to the closest, you should obtain an Unregistered Vehicle Permit from your local Service NSW.

So that is a very basic guideline of what needs to be done to register a converted bus into a motorhome. Of course, things are rarely ever as simple as we want them to be! So let’s get into some specifics.

What do I need in my motorhome to make it compliant?

Everything in the above list of minimum motorhome requirements needs to be rigidly fixed to the vehicle. However, you can have a table which can be folded down, or converted to a bed.

Safety –

The first thing an engineer will look at is the safety requirements. Everything must be fitted or installed so that it cannot cause damage or harm to someone. This is while the vehicle is both stationary, and moving. For example, you cannot have sharp edges, or items which will go flying while you’re driving and you cannot have any holes in the floor (we got caught out with this one!). All tables and chairs need to be installed so they cannot move or dislodge.

Sleeping Berths –

When it comes to sleeping areas, a very important requirement is that you must have at least one seat, per sleeping berth. So for example, if you have 4 beds in your bus, you must have 4 seats to use while travelling.

Seats/Seatbelts –

Seatbelts are important and something the engineer will definitely look at. If you are using a seat that was originally fitted, and in its original position, you do not need to make adjustments to any of the seatbelts. However, if you move any of the seats, or make any sort of adjustments (for example, change to captain’s chairs, or recliners) then the vehicle needs to be fitted with new seatbelts that meet compliance.

Seatbelts cannot be fitted to a non-designated seat.

Doors –

In NSW, a motorhome must have an outward opening door on either the left hand side or the rear of the vehicle.

So those awesome bi-fold doors? No good unfortunately.

There are a few options here however; you can replace the bi-fold door with an outward opening caravan door, or you can modify the existing bi-fold door with different hinges, and by welding the 2 pieces together to make it a bi-fold door.

A door that slides on the outside of the vehicle is fine.

There can be no obstructions to the door, and it must be easily accessible in case of an emergency.

Gas Appliances –

Any gas appliances, such as ovens, stoves, hot water systems, heaters etc, need to be installed by a licenced gas plumber. You will need to get a certificate for the appliances installed. Your gas plumber will also need to provide a gas plate which he will attach to the vehicle which states it meets the gas regulations. This paperwork will all need to be provided to your engineer to be compliant.

There are certain requirements with gas that are very important in your floor plan. For example, the gas bottles must be in a completely sealed box and only accessible from outside of the vehicle. Also, they cannot be within 1.5 metres of any ignition source. So this means that you need to have a gap of at least 1.5 metres from your gas bottles to your stove, and hot water system.

Electrical Appliances –

If you are having mains connection in your bus, your electrical installations needs to be done by a licenced electrician.

You must get a safety certificate from your electrician stating that the work is compliant to motorhome standards. This is then taken to your engineer as well.

12V and 24V wiring can be done by yourself, however if unsure, please contact an auto electrician.

Ventilation –

This is one where we got caught out and had to make a last minute adjustment!

Depending on the size of your motorhome, depends on how much ventilation you must have.

The standard rule is that at least half of your windows must open, you must have another source of ventilation (for example, our caravan door has a permanent vent to allow air), and you have to include either two whirly birds, or a roof hatch towards the rear of the bus.

We didn’t realise this, and a few days before we were booked into the engineer we called to clarify we had everything and realised we did not have a roof hatch. Luckily there was a caravan shop close by we could get one and put in in time.

Toilets, Sinks, Showers –

Any toilet installed in a motorhome must be emptied into a tank. So this means, it cannot just go straight to the ground!

The tank must be vented to the atmosphere.

Any sink or shower needs to drain into a tank that also vents to the atmosphere. It cannot drain into a toilet, or the same tank as the toilet waste goes into.

TV’s –

This might be a small thing, but still important.

A TV or visual aid cannot be installed somewhere that can be seen from the driver’s seat and needs to be securely mounted. It also cannot obscure the driver’s vision, or get in the way of movement in the vehicle. In other words, it cannot be a distraction!

This does not include GPS.

Fire Extinguisher –

Every motorhome must have a compliant fire extinguisher mounted no more than 1.2 metres from the floor in the living space.

Smoke Alarm –

A compliant smoke alarm is a requirement to be passed by the engineer. It is also a good idea to consider one with a CO2 monitor.

Standard vehicle requirements –

And then there is all the other standard vehicle requirements you must be compliant with to change a bus to a motorhome.

For example, all vehicles need to be within a certain width, and height and not have too much rear overhang.

Every vehicle must be right hand drive and within its weight limits.

All the lights and reflectors must be in working order and windows must be transparent with compliant tint.

Tyres need to be the correct size for the vehicle, and have plenty of tread.

So now that that’s out of the way, what are some of the variations?

My bus is already registered –

So you have bought a bus that is already registered. That is perfectly fine and not much different in terms of converting to a motorhome.

Make sure to attend a Service NSW centre to pay and transfer the bus into your name. You have 14 days from the date of purchase to avoid being charged a late payment fee.

You can then follow the above step by step process up to step 4. After this however, once you have your compliance paperwork from the engineer, you can take this, and your registration papers to a Service NSW centre. They will update the information on their end and change it to a motorhome.

They may still charge you a fee as there may be a difference in the registration cost from a bus to a motorhome.

You may also need to contact your CTP company and advise them of the changes.

My bus is coming from interstate –

That’s okay, if it is coming from interstate, the process is exactly the same as if it were an unregistered vehicle in NSW. You will however need to surrender the interstate plates when you go into a Service NSW centre.

If your vehicle is registered when it comes from interstate, you have 3 months to change it into your name in NSW.

I have purchased a motorhome from interstate –

The first thing we would suggest here is to contact an engineer in NSW.

As the motorhome is coming from interstate, it may or may not be compliant with NSW motorhome requirements. In this case, you may need to make adjustments to your motorhome, then attend the engineer to get a NSW engineer certificate.

You would then attend a Service NSW registry to complete the interstate transfer process. You will need to provide proof of purchase for the vehicle, as well as surrender the interstate number plates.

What if I want to decrease or increase my GVM?

If you want to change your GVM, or are concerned with your weight, it is really important to keep this in mind throughout the process of your build, and speak to your engineer.

The situations where a motorhomes GVM can be changed are very limited.

The most common thing people would do here is decrease the GVM so the vehicle can be driven on a different class of licence.

We enquired about this with our engineer originally, and they said they could, however would need to make an adjustment to the springs on the bus. We opted against due to cost, and decided to keep the extra weight allowance just in case.

So, that’s it!

So that gives you an expanded list of requirements for a bus to be changed to a motorhome in NSW, as well as a guide to getting it registered. A lot of the states are similar but do have different requirements.

It seems like a lot, but as long as you know what you are expected to do, it makes the process a whole lot easier. There are definitely a lot of variations, and most certainly things we have not covered here. So again, when in doubt, contact your engineer or Service NSW for clarification.

And good luck!

Guide to Gas in your Motorhome or Bus Conversion

January 19, 2019 by Claire Edwards 2 Comments

Disclaimer – All gas work on a motorhome, caravan or bus conversion must be done to Australian standard AS/NZS5601 by a licenced gas installer. This is a guide to gas and a general information post only. Everything should be checked with your gas installer. The standard is often being revised, and incorrectly installed gas can be very dangerous.

Most motor homes or bus conversions have some sort of gas appliances. Gas is a good alternative to electricity as it is cheap and gas bottles can go for weeks/months without replacing or refilling. There are a lot of rules and regulations when preparing for gas so we thought we would write a post with a few helpful things we have come across to help you when designing your bus conversion. This guide to gas post also includes our tips so you don’t struggle like we did!

Gas bottle locations –

It is very important that you read the regulations and rules in your state when you prepare for gas. There are rules where the gas bottles, and appliances can be located, and how they need to be installed.

There are two options where you can mount your gas bottles. You can mount them externally, for example on a drawbar, or in a box inside the vehicle. If you decide to mount them inside the vehicle, the gas box cannot be accessed from inside the vehicle, only the outside. This is discussed further in the next point.

In NSW, where we are, the gas bottles need to be at least 1.5 metres from any ignition source; for example, an oven. This is for safety purposes, in case of a gas leak. This 1.5 metres is measured from the ventilation hole in your gas box (refer to the ventilation section for more details about this).

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Gas bottle box requirements –

Your gas box can be premade, or custom made depending on yours, and your gas certifiers preference.

If you are going to make it yourself, it must be completely sealed from the inside of your vehicle and only accessible from the outside. This is in case of a gas leak, there is nowhere for the gas to vent inside your bus or motorhome, only outside.

Gas Box - completely sealed. caravan gas certificate

The gas box needs to have a hole for ventilation at the bottom, taking any gas that may escape down and out of your bus or motorhome. Alternatively, your gas box door may have a suitable ventilation source at the bottom.

If you are going to make it yourself, your gas certifier may have other specific requirements; for example, check what they would like you to make it out of. We used 12mm plywood in our Toyota Coaster, however some installers may prefer metal or fibreglass.

There are premade boxes available for purchase. Whilst these can be a little pricey, they save a lot of time and effort and you know they are completely sealed and should meet standard requirements.

Some premade boxes –

Caravan RV Camping 9kg Cyliner Box

DIY RV Solutions make gas boxes for certain vehicles.

Our Mercedes Vario Gas box - Pre fabricated - roaming on rubber

Restrictions for where appliances can be located –

All appliances have to be installed as per the instructions for your units. Some appliances can only be installed in certain locations, and must not be below any opening windows, doors, or annex areas; for example a hot water system. If something like a hot water system is installed here, the window will need to be permanently sealed. This is so the gas doesn’t vent outside the bus or motorhome, and back in via the open window or door.

Copper Pipe –

Copper pipe should be located outside of the vehicle, with each appliance having its own branch pipe that enters the vehicle adjacent to the appliance. This pipe needs to be protected from damage; which can be covering it with a hose or pipe.

Each appliance must have its own shut off valve that is readily accessible.

There are a lot of rules surrounding the pipes, pipe length, joins and junctions. This is a guide to gas post only, and as this must be done by a certified gas installer we have kept it brief and leave this step up to the experts. If you would like to know more it is best that you speak to your installer or purchase a copy of AS/NZS5601.

Ventilation –

Ventilation is extremely important if you will have gas appliances in your vehicle, for example a gas cooktop, oven or even some gas fridges. It is a requirement that you have two forms of ventilation in your vehicle; these vents need to be classed as ‘permanent’ and unrestricted. The two vents need to be at opposite ends of your motorhome with one at the top towards the roof (typically a skylight/hatch of some sort), and the other needs to be near the ground at the opposite end of the vehicle (generally a vent in the door).

Depending on how long your vehicle is, will also depend on how big these vents need to be. This is a general table –

Vehicles up to 4 metres long – 240 cm2 of ventilation
From 4 to 5 metres long – 300 cm2 of ventilation
Any from 5 to 6 metres long – 360 cm2 of ventilation
Vehicles over 6 metres long – 420 cm2 of ventilation

This amount of ventilation gets split between the two vents inside the vehicle.

Roof hatch - roaming on rubber - guide to gas

General –

Prior to registration any connections will need to be completed by a licensed gas plumber, and a certificate provided for the work completed. You will also need a compliance plate attached to your bus or motorhome, which confirms it passes the regulations.

If you are unsure of any rules or regulations where you are located, it is best to speak to a gas plumber or engineer directly. That way you can get the correct information.

We found that a lot of gas plumbers were uncertain of the rules for motor homes or were unsure if they were able to do the job. There is a lot of information online and the instruction manuals are invaluable. Don’t lose them! Whenever our gas plumber was unsure, we turned to the manuals for help. There are specific gas plumbers who work on motorhomes and we have found these to be the most knowledgeable.

It was also extremely helpful for us to talk to the engineer throughout the entire build. Not only did this build a working relationship where the engineer knew what stage we were up to, but it also ensured the problems, if any, were minimal. They know what they are doing, and what is required, so don’t be afraid to chat to them.

Our Tips –

Book your gas plumber in advance!

Our first, and most important tip is to book your gas plumber in advance.

Gas plumbers who are able to work on motorhomes are few and far between, and get very busy!

With our Toyota Coaster, we didn’t realise we were ready for a plumber until around a week before. There was an approximate 2 month wait list. We ended up calling around and finding another gas plumber who could squeeze us in around other jobs. This issue with this was the plumber was not well versed with motorhome standards and things took a little longer than they may have ordinarily.

This time with our Mercedes Vario, we have booked well in advance. As we get closer to the date, if we do not believe ourselves to be ready we will reschedule. However it puts a little bit of pressure on the timeline, and will hopefully make us work a little harder!

Cut any holes needed in your bus before you put your internal walls in!

It may sound obvious, but cutting the holes for vents, and gas bottles beforehand is a step we skipped in our Toyota Coaster and 100% regret.

If the holes had been cut in the metal wall of the bus before we installed our internal ply walls, we would have had our gas box closer to the edge of the bus. Instead, we had to build a ‘make-shift’ aluminium surround between the hatch and the box to cover the approximate 10cm gap. So much more time, money and effort than we wanted!

It also would have been so much easier to line everything up. Cutting one hole is easier than 2! As we had our ply wall already installed, we had to cut through both.

Long story short, don’t wait until you have installed your internal walls! Plan it and cut the hatch space, or any other required holes first!

Now that we have our Mercedes Vario, we have cut the holes prior to putting walls up, and also purchased a pre-fabricated gas box like the ones mentioned above. It took so much less time and effort!

Try and have the gas plumber come in as early in your build as you can.

By the time we got around to having a gas plumber come to do the work on our Toyota Coaster, we had already built a lot of the structures.

This meant when trying to run the gas lines, we had to cut through our completed walls. It would have been much easier building the walls around them.

When trying to connect our hot water system, the physical access was extremely difficult. We had not planned and left much working space around the unit. The plumber struggled to run the lines and organise the connections. And to top it off… he also kept hitting his head!

Just a couple of tips when you prepare for gas, but definitely some good things to keep in mind.